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WITH 




TOURS TO THE NEIGHBOURING LAKES 
AND OTHER INTERESTING PLACES, 

BY MISS HARRIET MARTI YEA t. 

SHEilij n jjHap. 

ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS BY T. L. ASHLAND, 
ENGRAVED BY W. J. LINTON. 



WIN! *HRM K RE : JOH X 0 ARN ETT. 

■CONDON : -—WHITTAKER AND CO. 


NX 



PRICE ONE SHILLING. 










d 







































































ACROSS THE HEAD OF STOCKGHYLL 













GUIDE 


TO 

WINDERMERE, 


WITH 


TOURS TO THE NEIGHBOURING LAKES AND OTHER 
INTERESTING PLACES, 


BY MISS HARRIET MARTINEAU. 


Witfj a fltap anti Hlustrattons. 


TO WHICH ABE ADDED EXCURSIONS TO AND FROM KESWICK; ALSO AN 
ACCOUNT OF THE FLOWERING PLANTS, FERNS, AND MOSSES 
OF THE DISTRICT, 


AND A COMPLETE DIRECTORY TO WINDERMERE AND 
ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


SECOND EDITION. 


WINDERMERE : — JOHN GARNETT. 

LONDON :-WHITTAKER AND CO. 

r / V "7 




21A £10 
W72 H* 


WINDERMERE: PRINTED BY JOHN GARNETT. 

ZH'll’f 
i /i 





INDEX 


Page. 


Ambleside. 41 and 55 

Anecdote of Charcoal Burner 23 

Approach to Lakes . 5 

Ara Force.39 

Barrow Cascade.73 

Bassenthwaite Lake.79 

Biscut How. 9 

Blackcombe .57 

Boats and Boating .20 

Borrowdale.74 

Bowder Stone .74 

Bowness. — Port of Win¬ 
dermere . 9 

-The Quay.11 

-Hotels,—Charges 10 

-Parish Church ... 11 

-Rectory .11 

Brathay Valley.19 

Brathay Church.46 

Brothers* Water.37 

Buttermere.76 

Calgarth Woods.. 15 

Calder Abbey .79 

Castle Rock.70 

Castle Crag.74- 

Char .32 

Christopher North .13 

Clappersgate .46 

Cook’s House .16 

Coniston Lake .26 

„ Tent Lodge.28 

,, Old Man (Mountain) 27 

„ „ ... 58 

Coniston Bank (view from) 28 

Crier of Claife .31 

CrummockLake.77 

Cur wen’s Island.12 

Day on the Mountains ... 57 

Derwentwater .73 

Dodgson, a Charcoal Burner 22 


Page. 


Druid’s Temple.72 

Dungeon Ghyll Force.48 

Dunmail Raise.68 

Easedale Tam, (angling) ... 51 

Elizabeth ° h.28 

Elterwaiei.48 

Elleray, — Grounds open to 

the Public ... 7 

Esthwaite Water .29 

„ Floating Island... 29 

Fairfield .45 

„ (ascent of) .58 

„ (view from summit) 63 
Ferns, &c., on Stone Fences 15 

Ferns.89 

Ferry Nab.12 

Ferry House .13 

Ferry. — Boating across ... 32 
“Finest View in Westmor¬ 
land.” .48 

Flowering Plants .83 

Foliage, — Coloring of ... 12 

Furness Abbey.24 

Glencoin .38 

Grange .74 

Grasmere Lake and Village 49 

Grisdale Tarn .94 

Hartsop .37 

Hartley Coleridge .53 

Hawkshead.29 

Helm Crag, or Lion & Lamb 67 

Helvellyn .68 

Highest Inhabited House ... 36 

Hoiiister Crag .77 

Josiah Brown’s Bull Fight 34 

Keswice: .70 

,, Parish Church ... 71 

Kirkstone Pass.36 

Lake Drainage.17 

Lake Shores .18 















ii. INDEX. 


Page. 

Lakes and Waterfall.94 

Langdale .48 

Langdale Pikes.58 

Langstreth.75 

Legberthwaite .69 

Legend of Ara Force.39 

Lodore Waterfall .74 

Loughrigg.46 

„ Tarn.47 

„ Terrace .50 

Lowwood .18 

Lyulpli’s Tower.38 

Marrying on a Friday ... 30 

Miller Brow .15 

Mosses.91 

Mountain Tracks .51 

„ Foi mation. 4 

„ Fences .59 

„ Sheep.61 

„ Stillness .61 

Mountains (heights of) ... 93 
Nab Scar and Fairfield ... 53 

Nab Scar .64 

Newby Bridge .18 

Newlands .78 

Old Chimnies and old Oak 

Carving.16 

Orrest Head ... ... ... 5 

Oxenholme Railway Junction 3 

Passes (heights of) .93 

Patterdale.37 

Place Fell.37 

Railway Terminus, Winder- 

mere . 4 

Railways, termination of ... 5 

Rain Guages .62 

Ravens .27 

Kayrigg .14 

Red Bank.49 

Road to Bowness . 9 

Roman Road, or High Street 34 

Rosthwaite.75 

RydalLake.53 

Rydal Falls .55 


Rydal Forrest . 

Page. 

... 60 

Sawrey . 

... 30 

Scale Force . 

... 77 

Scale Hill . 

... 78 

Scandale Screes . 

... 37 

Scandale Fells . 

... 41 

Seathwaite . i. 

.. 75 

Shepherd Priest. 

.. 62 

Singularities of Josiah Brown .45 

Skelwith Bridge. 

.. 46 

Skelwith Force. 

.. 47 

Skiddaw (ascent of) ... 

.. 80 

Slate Quarries . 

.. 77 

Sour Milk Ghyll Force 

.. 51 

Sprinkling Tarn. 

.. 78 

Stake . 

.. 75 

Station House . 

.. 30 

Steamboat Trip . 

.. 16 

Steam-yachts . 

.. 11 

Stockghyll Force ... . 

.. 43 

Stoneth waite . 

.. 75 

Storrs, Regatta at 

.. 13 

Strands . 

.. 79 

Sty Head . 

.. 78 

Thirlmere Lake . 

.. 69 

Threlkeld . 

.. 81 

Trout and Char . 

.. 20 

Troutbeck . ... 

.. 33 

Ullswater ... . 

.. 38 

Yale of St. John’s 

.. 69 

Wansfell Pike . 

.. 58 

Wasdale . 

.. 78 

Wast water. 

.. 79 

Windermere, Village of. 

.. 3 

» » 

... 8 

„ College 

.. 8 

„ Lake... 

... 13 

>> >»•••• 

... 16 

Woodcutter’s Hut 

... 22 

Wordsworth’s Grave... . 

... 52 

Wordsworth’s Garden 

... 54 

Wythbum . 

... 68 

Yew Trees of Borrow dale 

... 7B 

Yew Crag . 

... 77 































































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PART I. 


WINDERMERE. 

A few years ago there was only one meaning to the 
word Windermere. It then meant a lake lying 
among mountains, and so secluded that it was some 
distinction even for the travelled man to have seen it. 
Now, there is a Windermere railway station, and a 
Windermere post-office and hotel; — a thriving village 
of Windermere and a populous locality. This implies 
that a great many people come to the spot; and the 
spot is so changed by their coming, and by other cir¬ 
cumstances, that a new guide book is wanted; for 
there is much more to point out than there used to 
be; and what used to be pointed out now requires a 
wholly new description. Such new guidance and des¬ 
cription we now propose to give. 

The traveller arrives, we must suppose, by the rail¬ 
way from Kendal, having been dropped at the Oxen- 
holme Junction by the London train from the south, 
or the Edinburgh and Carlisle train from the north. 

A 



4 


MOUNTAIN FORMATION. 


The railways skirt the lake district, but do not, and 
cannot, penetrate it: for the obvious reason that rail¬ 
ways cannot traverse or pierce granite mountains or 
span broad lakes. If the time should ever come when 
iron roads will intersect the mountainous parts of 
Westmorland and Cumberland, that time is not yet; 
nor is in view, — loud as have been the lamentations 
of some residents, as if it were to happen to-morrow. 
No one who has ascended Dunmail Raise, or visited 
the head of Coniston Lake, or gone by Kirkstone to 
Patterdale, will for a moment imagine that any con¬ 
ceivable railway will carry strangers over those passes, 
for generations to come. It is a great thing that 
steam can convey travellers round the outskirts of the 
district, and up to its openings. This is now effectually 
done; and it is all that will be done by the steam 
locomotive during the lifetime of anybody yet bom. 
The most important of the openings thus reached is 
that of Windermere. 

The mountain region of Cumberland and Westmor¬ 
land has for its nucleus the cluster of tall mountains, 
of which Scawfell is the highest. There are the loftiest 
peaks and deepest valleys. These are surrounded by 
somewhat lower ridges and shallower vales ; and these 
again by others, till the uplands are mere hills and the 
valleys scarcely sunk at all. It is into these exterior 
undulations that the railways penetrate; and, at the 
first ridge of any steepness, they must stop. It is this 
which decides the termination of the Windermere 
railroad, and which prevents the lateral railways from 
coming nearer than the outer base of the hills on the 


ORREST HEAD. 


5 


east and the coast on the west. When the traveller 
on foot or horseback sees certain reaches of Lake 
Windermere from Orrest Head, lying deep down below 
him, he knows he is coming near the end of the railway, 
which cannot yet plunge and climb as our old mail 
roads must do, if they exist here at all. As a general 
rule, lakes should he approached from the foot, that 
the ridges may rise, instead of sinking, before the 
observer’s eye. But so happy is the access to Winder- 
mere from the station, that it is hard to say that it 
could have been better; and that access is, not from 
the south to its lower end, hut from the south-east to 
about its middle. The old coach road over Orrest 
Head and the railway meet at the new village of 
Windermere, whence the road to Bowness descends, 
winding for about a mile and a half, striking the shore 
at a point rather more than half way up the lake, and 
commanding the group of mountains that cluster about 
its head. 

Supposing that the traveller desires to see the Win¬ 
dermere scenery thoroughly, we shall divide our.direc¬ 
tions into portions ; first exhibiting what is to he seen 
in the immediate neighbourhood of the Windermere 
Hotel, or within a moderate walk; and then describing 
three tours, two of which may he easily taken in a day 
each. One mountain trip will he added, and, these 
being faithfully prosecuted, the tourist may he assured 
that he has seen all that falls within the scope of a 
summer visitor in the opening region of the Lake 
District. 

A few minutes will take him to Orrest Head, where 
a 2 


6 


ELLERAY. 


he will see a lovely view, — a picturesque cottage roof, 
surrounded by trees, in the foreground; grey rocks 
cropping out of the sward on the other side of the 
hedges ; and in front, overlapping hills, range behind 
range, with the grey waters of the lake lying below. 
Already, a traveller who should remain any time in 
the district would find himself introduced to the 
humours of a remote region. Odd sayings and doings 
remain, and traditions of old singularities are not lost. 
This place, Orrest Head, was the residence of the noted 
Josiah Brown, who amused himself, a century ago, with 
welcoming beggars, whom he supplied with meat and 
lodging, — sometimes to the number of twenty in a 
night. He called them his “jolly companionsand 
no doubt he got a world of amusement out of them, in 
return for his hopitality. The local saying, “ that’s too 
big a bo-o for a young horse,” was Josiah Brown’s, and 
it was originated thus. He was breaking in a young 
horse, when one of his men took a liberty, — such 
as his servants were always taking with him, — but 
in this case to be repented of. The fellow hid himself 
behind a gate-post, and yelled so tremendously as 
his master passed through that Josiah was thrown, 
and broke his leg. His good-natured criticism was, 
“that was too big a bo-o for a young horse;” and this 
is still the proverbial expression of extreme surprise. 

The hill to the right is part of the Elleray property, 
so well known as the lake-home of Christopher North, 
and now so much improved by its present proprie¬ 
tor, Mr. Eastted. If the traveller should have the 
good fortune to obtain a ticket of leave to enter the 


ELLERAY. 


7 


grounds,* his first object should he to walk up that hill 
at Elleray, by Mr. Eastted’s new drive. All the way 
up, the views are exquisite: hut that from the summit, 
— about 700 feet above the lake, is one of the finest 
the district can show. The whole length of Winder- 
mere extends below, with its enclosing hills and wooded 
islands; and towards the head, some of the high¬ 
est peaks and ridges may be seen: — Coniston 
Old Man to the west; Bowfell and the Langdale Pikes 
to the northwest; Fairfield to the north, with Lough- 
rigg lying, as a mere dark ridge, across the head of 
Windermere; while, to the north-east, Troutbeck is 
disclosed, with its peaks of High Street and Hill Bell. 
All below are woods, with houses peeping out; on a 
height of the opposite shore, Wray Castle; further 
north, the little Brathay Chapel, set down near the 
mouth of the valley; and between Loughrigg and the 
lake, at its head, the white houses of Clappersgate, 
with the chateau-like mansion of Croft Lodge conspi¬ 
cuous above the rest. This view is a good deal like 

* A portion of the Elleray grounds are open to the public every 
Monday and Friday. Tickets of admission, hearing date, are 
issued on application to Mr. Garnett, at the Windermere Post- 
office, by paying a small donation, not less than one shilling, for a 
party of six persons, and, if above that number, the donation must 
be doubled. The proceeds are for the benefit of the school for the 
education of the poor, established by the Rev. J. A. Addison, 
and the sick and aged poor of Windermere, who may need assist¬ 
ance. — Parties will enter at the gate opposite the post-office, and 
proceed up the road to the right, which is the main road leading 
to the top of the hill, and return by the same route. All branch 
roads are strictly private. 

A 3 


8 


VILLAGE OE WINDEBMERE. 


tlie one from the hill behind the Windermere Hotel, 
which is reached by a lane turning off from Orrest 
Head. The Elleray one is the most extensive and com¬ 
plete to the north: hut to enjoy the other, leave will he 
readily obtained at the hotel. 

The village of Windermere is like nothing that is to 
he seen any where else. The new buildings (and all 
are new) are of the dark grey stone of the region, and 
are for the most part of a mediaeval style of architec¬ 
ture. The Rev. J. A. Addison, of Windermere, has a 
passion for ecclesiastical architecture; and his example 
has been a good deal followed. There is the little 
church of St. Mary, and there are the schools belonging 
to it, with their steep roofs of curiously-shaped slates : 
and there is St. Mary’s Abbey, (new, in spite of its 
antique name), and St. Mary’s Cottage. And there 
will be the new college of St. Mary, standing in a fine 
position, between the main road and the descent to the 
lake. This college, of which the Rev. J. A. Addison 
is the warden, is designed to afford a cheap and 
thorough education, on sound church principles, to 
the sons of clergymen chiefly, though not exclusively. 
It is under high patronage, ecclesiastical and local. 
The pupils, in a college garb of the olden time, are a 
curious feature in the aspect of the place ; and they 
will be more so when they get their new buildings to 
live in. Judging by the plan and elevation put forth, 
the edifice will be in excellent taste, and a great adorn¬ 
ment to the neighbourhood. The large house, on the 
hill and amidst the woods of the Elleray estate, and 
often mistaken for the new college, is the property of 


ROAD TO BOAVNESS. 


9 


John Gandy, Esq., Avho has chosen a charming site 
for his abode; and a little further, on the same side of 
the road, is the pretty villa-residence of Miss Yates. 

There are villas on either side the road, on almost 
every favourable spot, all the way to Bowness. The 
road past the college grounds leaves the other 
one to be called by the inevitable title of “the old 
road.” We pass rows of lodging-houses; and then we 
see to the right the spot where the college Is to he: 
and to the left Ellerthwaite, the residence of Mr. Geo. 
H. Gardner; and then, to the right, the cottage of 
Mylnbeck, the residence of the Misses Watson, daugh¬ 
ters of the late bishop of Llandaff: a common house 
in its aspect towards the road, but, as seen over the 
wall, very pretty in its garden-front. The next gate 
on the left is the entrance to the Craig, built by Sir 
Thomas Pasley, and now inhabited by W. B. Greg, 
Esq. Below this, the houses begin to thicken about 
the entrance to BoAvness. Among them, a road to the 
left leads to one of the most charming points of view in 
the neighbourhood,—a hill named Biscut How, crested 
with rocks, which afford as fine a station as the sum¬ 
mit of Elleray for a view of the entire lake and its 
shores. 

BOWNESS 

Is the port of Windermere. There the new steamboats 
put up; and thence go forth the greater number of 
fishing and pleasure boats Avhich adorn the lake. There 
is a good deal of bustle in the place; and the lower 
parts, near the Avater, are very hot in summer : and the 
more since the building of a neAv lodging house in a 


10 


BOWNESS. 


space near tlie church, which used to he called the lungs 
of Bowness. The two great inns, however, are in airy 
situations, — the garden platform of Ullock’s Royal 
Hotel overlooking the gardens that slope down to the 
shore; and the Crown being on a hill which commands 
the whole place. These inns are both extremely well 
managed; and it is for the traveller to say whether 
their charges, which are uniform, justify a complaint 
which has been made, (we think unreasonably as 
regards the Lake District in general) of high prices. 
During the season, which extends from May to Novem¬ 
ber, the charges are two shillings for breakfast, (including 
meat, fish, &c.,) two shillings and sixpence for dinner; 
and one shilling and sixpence for tea. A private sitting- 
room is charged two shillings and sixpence per day. 
Ullock’s Hotel, called Royal since the visit of Queen 
Adelaide in 1840, makes up between seventy and eighty 
beds. Close at hand is a little museum, where the birds 
of the district may be seen, exceedingly well stuffed 
and arranged by Mr. Armstrong, a waiter at the hotel. 
The Crown has ten private sitting rooms, and makes up 
ninety beds. Nothing can well exceed the beauty of 
the view from its garden seats. 

There is an exhibition open in Bowness during the 
summer months, which, it will be useful, and particu¬ 
larly agreeable to the stranger to visit, before he pene¬ 
trates further into the district. Mr. and Mrs. Lindsey 
Aspland exhibit their paintings of lake scenery every 
summer ; and their pictures are of a high order of merit 
as works of art, as well as for their fidelity as portraits 
of scenery. Mr. Aspland’s outline sketches are excel- 


THE SHORE. 


11 


lent; and those on which the passes are clearly indicated 
are of especial value to the pedestrian tourist. 

The old churchyard of Bowness, with its dark yews, 
and the weather-worn church, long and low, is the 
most venerable object in the place. The chancel win¬ 
dow of the church contains painted glass from Furness 
Abbey. The tomb of Bishop Watson will be found in 
the churchyard, near the east window. The rectory, 
which is hardly less venerable than the church, stands 
at a considerable distance from the village, and is 
approached through fields and a garden. The old- 
fashioned porch is there, of which this is said to he 
the last remaining instance in the whole district, — the 
roomy, substantial porch, with benches on each side, 
long enough to hold a little company of parishioners, 
and a round ivy-clad chimney immediately surmount¬ 
ing the porch. Within, there is abundant space, with 
little elevation ; — plenty of room in the hall and 
parlours, with ceilings that one can touch with the 
hand. Almost every other noticeable edifice in Bow¬ 
ness is new, or at least modern; the schools, the gift 
of the late Mr. Bolton, of Storrs Hall, — the Italian 
villa, called Belsfield, the property of the Baroness de 
Sternberg, and many others. 

The visitor will first repair to the strand, to salute 
the waters. He will find a good quay, with boats in 
abundance, and several boat-houses within view. A 
substantial little pier is built out into the lake; and 
on either side is a steamboat moored during winter; 
and to the end these two steamers come, six times a 
day each, during the summer. To the right, gardens 


12 


FERIiY NAB. 


slope down to this little bay; and they look gay even 
in winter from their profusion of evergreens, and from 
the ivy which clothes their walls. The church just 
peeps out behind the houses above. Looking over the 
lake, Curwen’s Island is just opposite. In May and 
early June, the woods of that island, and of all the 
promontories round, present a most diversified foliage, 
— from the golden tufts of the oak to the sombre hue 
of the pines, with every gradation of green between. In 
July and August, the woods are what some call too 
green, — massy and impenetrable, — casting deep sha¬ 
dows on the sward and the waters. Within the shadow 
on the shore stands the angler, watching the dimpling 
of the surface, as the fly touches it, or the fish leaps 
from it: and within the shadow on the water, the boat 
swings idly with the current; and the student, come 
hither for recreation, reads or sleeps as he reclines, 
waiting for the cool of the afternoon. Turning to the 
north, the highest peaks are not seen from this strand ; 
hut Fairfield and Loughrigg close in the head of the 
lake. 

Turning southwards along the margin, and walking 
about a mile, the explorer reaches the point of the 
promontory, Ferry Nab, which stretches out opposite 
the Ferry House, — itself on the point of an opposite 
promontory. There can hardly be a more charming 
resting-place than a seat under the last trees of this 
projection. It is breezy here; and the waters smack 
the shore cheerily. The Troutbeck hills come into 
view, and the head of the lake is grander. The roimd 
house on Curwen’s island is seen among the trees. The 










• • * f - \ • *■ .d 

■■ 

I " r " * ♦ 

. 0 

• V- 




































WINDERMERE, FROM NEAR STORRS. 









































PROFESSOR WILSON. 


13 


Ferry house, under its canopy of tall sycamores, and with 
its pebbly beach, is immediately opposite; and behind 
it rises the wooded hank which is, in light or shadow, 
one of the chief graces of the scene. If the sun shines 
upon it, it is feathered with foliage to the very ridge, 
and the hay beneath it is blue and lustrous. If the 
sun has gone down behind it, the hay is black; and 
every dipping bird sprinkles it with silver; and the 
wild duck that comes sailing out with her brood, draws 
behind her a pencil of white light. From this point, 
a view opens to the south. In the expanse of waters 
lies another island; and further down, on the eastern 
shore, a pier extends with a little tower at the end. 
This is Storrs : and at that pier did the guests embark 
when Scott went to meet Canning at Mr. Bolton’s, and 
the fine regatta took place, (under the direction of 
Christopher North) which is celebrated in Lockhart’s 
Life of Scott. This was only two years before Canning’s 
death, and seven before that of Scott. Mr. and Mrs. 
Bolton are gone; and Christopher North himself has 
followed. It is probable that no stranger ever sees that 
pier at Storrs without thinking of Professor Wilson; 
and, indeed, there is no spot in the neighbourhood with 
which his memory, and the gratitude of his readers, is 
not associated. Any where, such a presence is rarely 
seen ; and it was especially impressive in the places he 
best loved to haunt. More than one person has said 
that Wilson reminded them of the first man, Adam; 
so full was his large frame of vitality, force and sen¬ 
tience. His tread seemed to shake the ground, and his 
glance to pierce through stone walls ; and, as for his 


14 


A SHORT WALK. 


voice, there was no heart that could stand before it. 
In his horn’ of emotion, he swept away all hearts, 
whithersoever he would. No less striking was it to see 
him in a mood of repose, as he was seen when steering 
the packet-boat that used to pass between Bowness and 
Ambleside, before the steamers were put upon the lake. 
Sitting motionless, with his hand upon the rudder, in 
the presence of journeymen and market-women, and his 
eye apparently looking beyond everything into nothing, 
and his mouth closed above his beard, as if he meant 
never to speak again, he was quite as impressive and 
immortal an image as he could have been to the students 
of his moral philosophy class, or the comrades of his 
jovial hours. He was known, and with reverence and 
affection, beside the trout-stream and the mountain tarn, 
and, amidst the damp gloom of Elleray, where he could 
not bring himself to let a tree or a sprig be lopped 
that his wife had loved. Every old boatman and 
young angler, every hoary shepherd and primitive dame 
among the hills of the district, knew him and enjoyed 
his presence. He made others happy by being so in¬ 
tensely happy himself, when his brighter moods were 
on him; and when he was mournful, no one desired to 
be gay. He is gone with his joy and his grief; and 
the region is so much the darker in a thousand eyes. 

Instead of returning to his inn the way he came, the 
stranger may make a moderate and pleasant walk by 
going through Bowness on the Ambleside road, and 
round by Cook’s House. The first noticeable abode 
that he will see is Rayrigg, — a rather low, rambling, 
grey house, standing on the grass near a little bay of 


MILLER BROW. 


15 


the lake. It is a charming old-fashioned house, and its 
position has every advantage, except that it stands too 
low. On the high wall by the road side, immediately 
before reaching the gate of Rayrigg, the stranger will 
be struck with the variety of ferns. That wall is an 
excellent introduction to the stone fences of the region, 
richly adorned as many of them are with mosses and 
ferns. 

Passing between woods, resounding with brawling 
streams, the road leads up a rather steep ascent, the 
summit of which is called Miller Brow. Hence is seen 
what, in our opinion, is a view unsurpassed for beauty 
in the whole Lake District. The entire lake lies below, 
the white houses of Clappersgate being distinctly visi¬ 
ble at the north end and the Beacon at the south: and 
the diversity of the framework of this sheet of water is 
here most striking. The Calgarth woods, for which we 
are indebted to Bishop Watson, rising and falling, 
spreading and contracting below, with green undulating 
meadows interposed, are a perfect treat to the eye; and 
so are the islands clustering in the centre of the lake. 
Wray Castle stands forth well above the promontory 
opposite; and at the head, the Langdale Pikes, and 
their surrounding mountains seem, in some states of 
the atmosphere, to approach and overshadow the 
waters; and in others to retire, and shroud themselves 
in soft haze and delicate hues peculiar to cloud land. 
There is a new house, built just below the ridge at 
Miller Brow by William Sheldon, which we have 
thought, from the time the foundation was laid, the 
most enviable abode in the country, — commanding* a 


1G 


A STEAMBOAT TRIP. 


view worthy of a mountain top, while sheltered by hill 
and wood, and with the main road so close at hand that 
the conveniences of life are as procurable as in a street. 
A short descent hence brings the walker to Cook’s 
House, — the point where four roads meet. Cook’s 
house has only just disappeared. With it has disap¬ 
peared a fine specimen of the old fireplace of the district, 
with its chimney-corners. It is rather a drawback to 
the romance hanging about those wide old chimnies, to 
know that the good man had to sit with some special 
covering over his head and shoulders, to protect him 
from the soot that the rain brought down. At Cook’s 
house there were recesses and cupboards in that strange 
roofless alcove, — the door being of the old oak of which 
such fine specimens may be seen in the farm-houses of 
the dales. We should rather say, might till lately have 
been seen; for we fear there are but few left. The 
greater number of old chests, cupboard doors, and high 
backed chairs, covered with carvings, have found their 
way to the London curiosity shops, whence agents have 
been sent through the wildest places in the district to 
buy up such relics at high prices. Still, there are 
specimens left, as the observant traveller will notice. 

Of the four roads which meet here, the one 
to his left would take him to Ambleside; the one 
opposite, to Troutbeck. To reach his inn he must take 
the one to the right, which leads him straight home. 

The next thing to be done is to take a survey of the 
whole lake by a steamboat trip. During the summer, 
two steamers make six trips each; so that the stranger 
can choose his own hour, and go down or up first, as he 


LAKE DRAINAGE. 


17 


pleases. In accordance with the rule of lake approach, 
we should recommend his going down first. He em¬ 
barks at the pier at Bowness, and is carried straight 
across to the Ferry, where the boats touch. Then the 
course is southwards, with the lake narrowing, and the 
hills sinking till the scenery becomes merely pretty. 
The water is very shallow towards the foot, and the 
practicable channel is marked out by posts. The best 
work that the whole neighbourhood could undertake 
would be the deepening of the lake at this part, and of 
the river which carries off the overflow. Not only is 
the passage of the steamers difficult: there is a far worse 
evil in the inundations which take place on all the low- 
lying lands, even up to Rydal, from the insufficiency of 
the outlet. The mischief has much increased since 
drainage has been introduced. The excellent and 
indispensable practice of land drainage must he followed 
up by an improvement in arterial drainage, or floods 
are inevitable. The water which formerly dribbled 
away in the course of many days, or even weeks, now 
gushes out from the drains all at once ; and if the main 
outlets are not enlarged in proportion, the waters are 
thrown hack upon the land. This is the case now in 
the neighbourhood of Windermere, — the meadows and 
low-lying houses at Ambleside, a mile or two from the 
lake, being flooded every winter by the overflow of the 
lake first, then of the river, then of the tributary streams. 
The Steam Yacht Companies gave fifty pounds to have 
the lake deepened at Fell Foot, about five years ago; and 
Mr. White, the proprietor of the Newby Bridge Hotel, 
subscribed the same amount: and this was good as far 


18 


LAKE SHORES. 


as it went. But a much larger operation is required. 
There is a weir below Newby Bridge, to serve a corn 
mill. Now, the days of weirs and watermills are com¬ 
ing to an end. In these days of steam engines it is 
not to be endured that hundreds of acres should be 
turned into swamps, and hundreds of lives lost by fever, 
ague, and rheumatism, for the sake of a waterpower, 
which pays perhaps thirty pounds or forty pounds 
a-year. We say this of watermills generally; and in 
regard to the need of sufficient arterial drainage, we 
speak of the shores of Windermere in particular. The 
expense of carrying off the utmost surplus of the waters 
in the wettest season would be presently repaid, here as 
anywhere else, by the improved value of the land and 
house property, relieved from the nuisance of flood. 

The Swan Inn at Newby Bridge is exceedingly 
comfortable; and the charges are very moderate. The 
stranger will have to come again, on his way to Furness, 
at all events, and perhaps in some trip to Hawkshead ; 
or when making the circuit of the lake by land. Now, 
he merely calls for lunch or tea, during the stopping of 
the steamer; and then he is off again, up the lake. 
After the Ferry and Bowness, the next call is at Low- 
wood inn, where there are sure to be passengers landing 
or embarking. Between Bowness and Lowwood inn, 
Rayrigg has been seen, beside the little bay; and then 
Ecclerigg, with its overshadowing trees, and pretty 
pier. It is inhabited by Richard Luther Watson, Esq., 
grandson of the late Bishop of Llandaff. Just above 
Lowwood, high up on the wooded side of Wansfell, 
will be seen Dove Nest, once the abode of Mrs. 


THE ROTnAY AND BRATHAY. 


19 


Hemans, when its appearance was more primitive and 
less pretty than it is now, — improved as it has been 
by its present resident, her then young friend, the Rev. 
Robert Perceval Graves. Next comes Wansfell Holme, 
inhabited by the Rev. James J. Hornby. This is 
another choice situation. On the opposite shore is Wray 
Castle, erected by James Dawson, Esq.,—a most defensi¬ 
ble-looking place for so peaceful a region; hut an enviable 
residence, both from its interior beauty and the views it ' 
commands. Just above it, Pullwyke bay, where lily of 
the valley is found, runs far into the land; and overlook¬ 
ing it is seen Pull Cottage, the residence of Major 
Rogers. Next, the sweet, tranquil Brathay valley opens, 
with Mr. Redmayne’s mansion of Brathay Hall, on a 
green slope above the lake; and just behind, on a wooded 
knoll in the gorge of the valley, the beautiful little 
church, called Brathay Chapel, built by Mr. Redmayne. 

Two rivers fall into the lake, uniting just before they 
reach it; — the Rothay, which comes down from Dun- 
mail Raise, beyond Grasmere, and the Brathay, which 
issues from Elterwater, a group of pools, rather than 
a lake, lying at the foot of the hills near Langdale. 
The valleys of the Rothay and the Brathay are 
separated by Loughrigg, — the ridge of which, at its 
further end, commands Grasmere ; its Windermere end 
shelters Clappersgate and Waterhead. The steamer 
sweeps round to the pier at Waterhead, where there is 
a cluster of dwellings, the most imposing of which is 
the large grey stone house called Wanlas How, the 
property of Alexander C. Brenchley, Esq. Omnibuses 
are in waiting here, from Ambleside and Grasmere, — 

B 


20 


BOATING. 


the one, distant one mile; and the other, between four 
and five. Our tourist will, however, complete the 
circuit of the lake, by returning to Bowness. 

There are plenty of boats to be had at Waterhead 
and Bowness, and watermen who are practised and 
skilful. The stranger should be warned, however, 
against two dangers which it is rash to encounter. 
Nothing should induce him to sail on Windermere, or 
on any lake surrounded by mountains. There is no 
calculating on, or accounting for, the gusts that come 
down between the hills; and no skill and practice 
obtained by boating on rivers or the waters of a flat 
country are any sure protection here. And nothing 
should induce him to go out in one of the little skiffs 
which are too easily attainable and too tempting, 
from the ease of rowing them. The surface may be¬ 
come rough at any minute, and those skiffs are unsafe 
in all states of the water but the calmest. The long 
list of deaths occasioned in this way, — deaths both of 
residents and strangers, •—- should have put an end to 
the use of these light skiffs, long ago. The larger 
boats are safe enough, and most skilfully managed by 
their rowers: and the stranger can enjoy no better treat 
than gliding along, for hours of the summer day, peep¬ 
ing into the coves and bajs, coasting the islands, and 
lying cool in the shadows of the woods. The clearness 
of the water is a common surprise to the resident in a 
level country; and it is pleasant sport to watch the 
movements of the fish, darting, basking, or leaping in 
the sunshine, or quivering their fins in the reflected ray. 
What the quality of the trout and char is, the tourist 
will probably find every day, at breakfast and dinner. 




FIRST TOUR. 

FROM BOWNESS, BY NEWBY BRIDGE AND ULYERSTONE TO FUR¬ 
NESS ABBEY, RETURNING BY CONISTON, HAWKSHEAD, AND 
THE FERRY. 


MILES. MILES. 



Bowness to Newby Bridge ... 

... 8 

8 

Ulver stone 

16 

7 

Furness 

... 23 

8 

Foot of Coniston Water ... 

31 

7 

New Inn 

... 38 

4 

Hawkshead 

42 

3 

The Ferry ... 

... 45 


For the greater convenience of taking his pleasure on 
the water, the traveller will now shift his quarters to 
Bowness, where he will find himself, as we have said, 
comfortably accommodated at either Ullock’s Royal 
Hotel or the Crown. Now is his time for visiting 
Furness Abbey. This should he the first of his tours, 
because it will lead him into the least mountainous parts 
of the district. 

He will go down to Newby Bridge either by steamer, 
or by the road, which passes the grounds of Storrs, and 
cuts over hill and dale, and winds among the copses, 
till it crosses the bridge opposite the inn. Those 
copses have been valuable to the remotest known date, 
for charcoal, and they have become more so since the 
increase of manufactures has stimulated the demand for 
bobbins. There are bobbin-mills at Skelwith, at Amble- 
b 2 


22 


WOODLAND LIFE. 


side, at Troutbeck Bridge, and at Staveley. But the 
charcoal-burning goes on still, we believe, with some 
activity in these southern parts of the district. The 
one the traveller has just passed was the scene of the 
life of two brothers whose name and fame will not be 
let die. Their name was Dodgson ; and they lived in 
Cartmel Fell above a century ago. They were so intent 
on their wood-cutting that they spent Sunday in cook¬ 
ing their food for the whole week. They ate little hut 
oatmeal porridge ; and, when that fell short, they tried 
Friar Tuck’s ostensible diet of dried peas and hard 
beans. As they grew old, they began to feel the need 
of domestic help. Said the one to the other, “ Thou 
mun out and tait a wife.”—“Yes!” was the reply; 
“ if thear be a hard job, thou olus sets yan tult.” 
The thing was accomplished, however; and when the 
old fellows were still chopping away at upwards of 
eighty, rain or shine, ill or well, there was the wife in 
the dwelling, and children to help. The brothers left 
considerable property; but it went the way of miser’s 
money; and there are no Dodgson’s now in Cartmel 
Fell. 

All the way to Furness, there are specimens of roads 
and lanes which are locally called Ore gates (ways,) 
from their being constructed from the slag and refuse 
of the iron-ore formerly brought into the peninsula to 
be smelted, on account of the abundance of charcoal 
there. There are few objects more picturesque, to this 
day, than the huts of the woodcutters, who remain on a 
particular spot till their work is done. Upon piled 
stems of trees heather is heaped, to make a shaggy 


ULVERSTONE. 


23 


thatch; and when the smoke is oozing out, thin and 
blue, from the hole in the centre, or the children are 
about the fire in front, where the great pot is boiling, 
the sketcher cannot but stop and dash down the scene 
in his book. The children will say he is “spying 
fancies,” — as they say of every one who sketches, 
botanizes, or in any way explores; and perhaps some¬ 
body may have the good taste to advise him to come 
at night, when the glow from the fires makes the thicket 
a scene of singular wildness and charm. A sad story 
about a charcoal-burner belongs to this neighbourhood. 
On two farms lived families which were about to be 
connected by marriage. The young lover was a 
“coaler,” — a charcoal-burner; and one stormy day, 
when he was watching his fire, and sitting on a stone 
near his hut to take his dinner, he was struck dead by 
lightning. The poor crazed survivor, his Kitty Dawson, 
went to that hut after the funeral, and would never 
leave it again. She did nothing but sit on that stone, 
or call his name through the wood. She was well cared 
for. There was always food in the hut, and some kind 
eye daily on the watch, — though with care not to 
intrude. One day in winter, some sportsmen who were 
passing took the opportunity of leaving some provision 
in the hut. They became silent, and silenced their 
dogs. But she could never more be disturbed. They 
found her dead. 

It is eight miles hence to the cheerful little 
town of Ulverstone, which is now reached by the 
railway from Whitehaven; and from Ulverstone, the 
railway stretches south, past Furness Abbey, to the 
b 3 


24 


FURNESS ABBEY. 


margin of the sea. From Ulverstone to Furness, it 
is only seven miles. There is a good inn, — (though 
not cheap, as cheapness is not to be expected in the 
precincts of secluded ruins:) and here the tourist 
should bespeak his bed, if he means to study the 
Abbey. 

The Abbey was founded in A. D. 1127. Its domains 
extended over the whole promontory in which it lies, 
and to the north, as far as the Shire Stones on Wry- 
nose. They occupied the space between Windermere 
on the east and the Duddon on the west. The Abbot 
was a sort of king; and his abbey was enriched, not 
only by King Stephen, but by the gifts of neighbour¬ 
ing proprietors, who were glad to avail themselves, not 
only of its religious privileges, but of its military 
powers for the defence of their estates against border 
foes, and the outlaws of the mountains, — the descend¬ 
ants of the conquered Saxons, who inherited their 
fathers’ vengeance. The Abbey was first peopled from 
Normandy, — a sufficient number of Benedictine monks 
coming over from the monastery of Savigny to establish 
this house in honour of St. Marye of Furnesse. In a 
few years their profession changed: they followed St. 
Bernard, and wore the white cassock, caul and scapu- 
lary, instead of the dress of the grey monks. It is 
strange now to see the railway traversing those woods 
where these grey-robed foreigners used to pass hither 
and thither, on their holy errands to the depressed and 
angry native Saxons dwelling round about. The situa¬ 
tion of the Abbey, as is usual with religious houses, is 
fine. It stands in the depth of a glen, with a stream 


FURNESS ABBEY. 


25 


flowing by, — the sides of the glen being clothed with 
wood. A beacon once belonged to it; a watch tower 
on an eminence accessible from the abbey, whose signal- 
fire was visible all over Low Furness, when assistance 
was required, or foes were expected. The building is 
of the pale red stone of the district. It must formerly 
have almost filled the glen: and the ruins give an 
impression, to this day, of the establishment having 
been worthy of the zeal of its founder, King Stephen, 
and the extent of its endowments, which were princely. 
The boundary-wall of the precincts inclosed a space of 
sixty-five acres, over which are scattered remains that 
have, within our own time, been interpreted to be those 
of the mill, the granary, the fish-ponds, the ovens and 
kilns, and other offices. As for the architecture, the 
heavy shaft is found alternating with the clustered 
pillar, and the round Norman with the pointed Gothic 
arch. The masonry is so good that the remains are, 
even now, firm and massive; and the winding stair¬ 
cases within the walls are still in good condition in 
many places. The nobleness of the edifice consisted in 
its extent and proportions; for the stone would not 
bear the execution of any very elaborate ornament. 
The crowned heads of Stephen and his Queen Maude 
are seen outside the window of the Abbey, and are 
among the most interesting of the remains. It is all 
triste and silent now. The chapter-house, where so 
many grave councils were held, is open to the babbling 
winds. Where the abbot and his train swept past in 
religious procession, over inscribed pavements, echoing 
to the tread, the stranger now wades among tall ferns 


26 


CONISTON. 


and knotted grasses, stumbling over stones fallen from 
the place of honour. No swelling anthems are heard 
there now, or penitential psalms; hut only the voice of 
birds, winds, and waters. But this blank is what the 
stranger comes for. Knowing what a territory the 
Abbots of Furness ruled over, like a kingdom, it is 
well to come hither to look how it is with that old 
palace and mitre, and to take one more warning of how 
Time shatters thrones, and dominations and powers, 
and causes the glories of the world to pass away. 

The stranger will be among the ruins late, by moon 
or by star light; and again in the morning, before the 
dew is off, and when the hidden violet perfumes the 
area where the censer once was swung, and where the 
pillars cast long shadows on the sward. But he must 
not linger; for he has a good circuit to make before 
night. 

The lake of Coniston, which is his next object, is in 
the district between Windermere and the Duddon, 
which has already been mentioned as formerly belonging 
to Furness Abbey. From Ulverstone, his road com¬ 
mands the estuary of the Leven for a few miles, and 
then approaches the foot of Coniston Water, which it 
reaches at eight miles from Ulverstone. Seven miles 
more bring him to the New Inn at Coniston, which, 
built under the direction of Mr. and Mrs. J. Gr. Marshall, 
is one of the most comfortable hotels in England. This 
lake, like Windermere, is flanked by low hills at the 
south end, and inclosed by magnificent mountains at 
the head, where Mr. J. Gr. Marshall’s house and lands 
are more gloriously situated than almost any other in 


CONISTON BANK. 


27 


the region. The little town of Church Coniston, and 
the New Inn, are a mile short of Waterhead ; and the 
stranger must stop, and look through the place, while 
his early dinner is preparing. The Old Man, eleventh 
in height of the mountains of the district, (2,576 feet) 
towers above him; and the abodes of the people will 
shew him that he is in the neighbourhood of a copper 
mine. There is one, some way up the mountain ; and 
he may see the winding road up to it. Higher up, 
where there is an evident hollow, he is told that he 
would find a deep black tarn; and higher up, another. 
But to climb the mountain is a day’s work, with much 
doubt of success, (that is, of a clear summit,) and he 
must to-day he satisfied with what is below. Yewdale, 
with its grey rocks, cushioned with heather up to their 
summits, stretches away northwards from the head of 
the lake, into a gorge where the mountains overlap. 
One of the crags there is called Baven Crag: and it is 
said that a pair of ravens is living now, there or some¬ 
where near. It is to he hoped that, now the eagles are 
gone, the last ravens will not be destroyed or scared 
away by the shot of the miners, or other rash sports¬ 
men, who are too apt to bring down every bird they 
see. There are many picturesque dwellings in the area 
which is between the heights and the lake: but the 
best view of these is from the point to which the 
stranger will proceed, after his lunch or early dinner. 
He must order his car to meet him in an hour at the 
junction of the two lake roads, on the Hawkshead 
road ; and then he must walk a mile to the Waterhead, 
and then on, round the head of the lake, in the direction 


28 


TENT LODGE. 


of Tent Lodge, which is seen nestling in its garden at 
some elevation above the lake. The road passes the 
site of the former Waterhead inn, now a young planta¬ 
tion of Mr. Marshall’s. Then, commanding the whole 
expanse of the lake, it begins to ascend, as it curves 
round to the east; and, at about a mile and three- 
quarters from the new inn, there stands the house in 
which Elizabeth Smith lived and died; and, on the 
opposite side of the road, Tent Lodge, built on the spot 
where a tent was pitched, that she might draw her 
dying breath with greater ease, and enjoy, as long as 
possible, the incomparable landscape there stretched 
before her. The boat-house is at the bottom of the 
slope, down which she used to take her mother’s guests; 
and she and her sister were so well practiced at the oar 
that they could show the beauties of the scene from 
any point of the lake. The first station is, however, 
from a field, — the first beyond the new house on 
Coniston Bank. Some people think this the finest view 
in the whole district: and truly, the frequent visitor 
pronounces it incomparable, every time he comes ; and 
the passing tourist feels that, once seen, it can never be 
forgotten. Nowhere else, perhaps, is the grouping of 
the mountain peaks, and the indication of their recesses 
so striking; and as to the foreground, with its glittering 
waterfall, its green undulations, its diversified woods, 
its bright dwellings, and its clear lake, — it conveys the 
strongest impression of joyful charm, — of fertility, 
prosperity and comfort, nestling in the bosom of the 
rarest beauty. 

"Retracing his steps for some way, and passing the 



CONiSTON PROM BANK GROUND. 



















































■ 





























































ill I 








HAWKSHEAD. 


29 


turn which would lead him down again to Tent Lodge, 
the stranger has rather a steep ascent before him, from 
point to point of which he finds, on looking behind 
him, new views of the lake appearing, while the magni¬ 
tude of the Old Man becomes more apparent as he 
recedes from it. By the roadpost, which indicates the 
two ways to the two sides of the lake, he finds his car; 
and then he proceeds through a wild country — moor¬ 
land, sprinkled with grey rock, — in the direction of 
Hawkshead, which is three miles from Waterhead. 

The parish church of Hawkshead is ancient; its 
appearance is venerable; and it stands, as a church 
should do, in full view of the country round, — of the 
valley in which Esthwaite Water lies. Elizabeth Smith 
lies buried there; and there is a tablet to her memory 
in the churchyard. At the ancient Grammar School of 
Hawkshead, Wordsworth and his brother were educated. 
Passing through the neat little town, the road turns to 
the left, to reach the northern end of Esthwaite Water, 
which is two miles long, and half a mile broad; — a 
quiet sheet of water, with two promontories stretching 
into it, which appear like islands, nearly dividing it into 
a chain of ponds. A round pond at the northern end 
of the lake, connected with it by a narrow creek, exhibits 
a strange phenoemenon. It has a floating island, — not 
like that of Derwentwater, which is a mass of mud and 
vegetable tangle, — but actually bearing trees : and this 
island is carried by strong winds from the one side to 
the other. The name of the pond is Priest’s Pot: a 
fact which some explain by a tradition that a priest 
was drowned there; and others by a supposition of its 


30 


THE PERRY. 


holding about as much as a thirsty priest would like to 
drink, if the liquor were sufficiently good. Lakebank 
is a pretty place; and further on, Lakefield, (J. R. 
Ogden’s, Esq.,) at Near Sawrey, commands perhaps the 
best view in the valley. Just beyond, the road turns 
to the left, through an undulating country of consi¬ 
derable beauty. We find a trace of the rebellion of 
1745 in the name of a lane, called “ Scotch Grate” (way.) 
It was here that the fearful Highlanders were looked 
for, on their march to Derby; and here they might 
have had all their own way if they had come; for 
Sawrey had no idea of showing fight. All the inhabi¬ 
tants, carrying all their valuables, hied away, and took 
refuge together in a solitary building which was called 
Cook’s braw bog-house. And braw it must have 
been, to hold all the Sawreyans. The view of 
Windermere from the highest point is very fine. 
The road leads through Farther Sawrey to the Ferry 
House. If there is daylight left, (and there may be, 
as the. Ferry is only seven miles from Coniston Water- 
head) the traveller may as well go to the Station House, 
which he must have seen from the opposite side of the 
lake, peeping out of the ever-green woods. There he 
obtains fine views, up and down the lake, and may 
mark, on the way up, the largest laurels he has ever 
seen. His driver, or some resident, will probably take 
care that he does not stay till it is more than reasonably 
dusk. As reasons in plenty are always found for not 
marrying on a Friday, so it is said to be impossible, 
somehow or other, to get over to the Ferry Nab in the 
ferry-boat, except by daylight. And if you should 


TIIE CRIEIl OF CLAIFE. 


31 


arrive at the Nab too late, you may call all night for 
the boat, and it will not come. The traveller may 
judge for himself how much of the local tale may be true. 
He may probably have heard of the Crier of Claife, 
whose fame has spread far beyond the district: but if 
not, he should hear of the Crier now, while within sight 
of Ferry Nab. If he asks who or what the Crier was, 
— that is precisely what nobody can tell, though every 
body would be glad to know: but we know all how 
and about it, except just what it really was. It gave 
its name to the place now called the Crier of Claife, — 
the old quarry in the wood, which no man will go near 
at midnight:— 

It was about the time of the Reformation, one 
stormy night, when a party of travellers were making 
merry at the Ferry-house, — then a humble tavern, — 
that a call for the boat was heard from the Nab. A 
quiet, sober boatman obeyed the call, though the night 
was wild and fearful. When he ought to be returning, 
the tavern guests stepped out upon the shore, to see 
whom he would bring. He returned alone, ghastly and 
dumb with horror. Next morning, he was in a high 
fever ; and in a few days he died, without having been 
prevailed upon to say what he had seen at the Nab. 
For weeks after, there were shouts, yells, and howlings 
at the Nab, on every stormy night: and no boatman 
would attend to any call after dark. The Reformation 
had not penetrated the region; and the monk from 
Furness who dwelt on one of the islands of the lake, 
was applied to to exorcise the Nab. On Christmas day, 
he assembled all the inhabitants on Chapel Island, and 


32 


CHAR. 


performed in their presence services which should for 
ever confine the ghost to the quarry in the wood behind 
the Ferry, now called the Crier of Claife. Some say 
that the priest conducted the people to the quarry and 
laid the ghost, — then and there. — Laid though it 
be, nobody goes there at night. It is still told how the 
foxhounds in eager chase would come to a full stop at 
that place; and how, within the existing generation, a 
schoolmaster from Colthouse, who left home to pass the 
Crier, was never seen more. Whatever may be said 
about the repute of ghosts in our day, it is certain that 
this particular story is not dead. 

Meantime, the heavy, roomy ferry-boat is ready : the 
horse is taken out of the car; and both are shipped. 
Two or three, or half-a-dozen people take advantage of 
the passage: the rowers, with their ponderous oars, are 
on the bench; and the great machine is presently afloat. 
The Ferry House looks more tempting than ever when 
seen from under its own sycamores,—jutting out as it 
does between quiet bays on either hand. The landing 
takes place on the opposite promontory: the horse is 
put to, and the traveller is presently at his inn. He 
is ready for his meal (be it tea or supper) of lake trout 
or char. The best char are in Coniston Water: but 
they are good every where ; especially to hungry travel¬ 
lers, sitting at table within sight of the waters whence 
they have just been fished. The potted char of Coniston 
is sent, as every epicure knows, to all parts of the world 
where men know what is good. As for the trout, there 
can be none finer than that of Windermere. 



SECOND TOUR 


BY TROUTBECK TO KIRKSTONE PASS AND PATTERDALE, AND 
DESCENT UPON AMBLESIDE. 


MILES. 


MILES. 


Bowhess to Kirkstone 
6 Patterdale 
4 Lyulpk’s Tower 
4 Back to Patterdale 
10 Ambleside ... 


7 

13 

17 

21 

31 


As the traveller will have other opportunities of 
observing the six miles of mailroad between Bowness 
and Ambleside, he may as well go round, and see 
Ullswater, on the day of his removal. Sending his 
luggage on by the omnibus to one of the three chief 
Ambleside inns, he will take a car for the day, and go 
by Troutbeck to Patterdale. 

The country people will tell him, as he turns up to 
Troutbeck at Cook’s House, that he is going to see 
“the handsomest view in these parts, — especially at 
the back-end of the year.” And wonderfully fine the 
views are, as the road ascends, commanding the entire 
lake, and the whole range of mountains from Coniston 
Old Man to Fairfield. The singular valley of Trout¬ 
beck was once a wooded basin, where the terrified 
Britons took refuge from the Romans, while the latter 
were making their great road from Kendal to Penrith. 
That road actually ran along the very ridge of the 


34 


TROUTBECK. 


Troutbeck hills, as any one may see who will climb the 
mountain called, for this reason, High Street. What 
a sight it must have been — the pioneers felling the 
trees, and paving the way, and the soldiers following, 
with their armour and weapons gleaming in the sun, 
while the trembling natives cowered in the forest below, 

— listening now to the blows of the workmen, and now 
to the warlike music of the troops, marching up from 
Kendal! After Romans and Saxons were gone, the 
valley was a great park, and the inhabitants were 
virtually serfs, in danger of the gallows, (which had a 
hill to itself, named after it to this day) at the will 
and pleasure of the one great man. In course of time, 

— that is, a good many centuries ago, — the valley was 
disparked, and divided among the inhabitants, — only 
one very large estate being left, — the new park, con¬ 
taining 2,000 acres. This was the estate given by 
Charles I, to Huddlestone Phillipson, for his services in 
the civil wars. The valley now contains a string of 
hamlets, — Town End, Town Head, High Green, Crag, 
and High Fold; and its farmsteads and outbuildings 
show some of the most curious specimens of ancient 
edifices that are to be seen in the district. Josiah 
Brown, whom we mentioned in connexion with Orrest 
Head, found nearly his match in oddity in this vale. 
A “rum fellow” in Troutbeck had a prodigious bull; 
and so had Josiah: and what must they do but meet 
half-way, and have a bull-fight; the terms being that the 
winner should have the fallen animal. Josiah actually 
came riding his bull. The battle was tremendous ; and 
the Troutbeck animal went down before Josiah’s, and 


TROUTBECK CHAPEL. 


85 


was given by him to the poor of Troutbeck. These 
anecdotes appear very strange to people who have lived 
in towns, or among the more level manners of the south: 
and this is why we relate them. They are among the 
curiosities of the district. Troutbeck is the most 
primitive of the frequented valleys of the district. To 
find any other so antique and characteristic, it is neces¬ 
sary to leave the high road, and explore the secluded 
dales of which the summer tourist sees and hears 
nothing. The dale looks from the uplands as if it had 
been scooped out between the ridges with a gigantic 
scoop. Its levels are parcelled out into small fields, of 
all manner of shapes; and the stream, — the beck 
abounding in trout ,—winds along the bottom, from the 
foot of High Street, to fall into the lake just by Calgarth. 

The road now followed by the tourist descends into 
the vale sharply, by the abode of John Wilson, Esq., at 
The How, and crosses the bridge, in full view of the 
chapel, which was consecrated in 1562, and thoroughly 
repaired in 1828. It is one of the small churches that, 
with their square tower and bell, look and sound so well 
in the dales. This one seats 160 worshipers. Imme¬ 
diately beyond the bridge, the road mounts again very 
steeply, till it joins that which runs along the hill sides, 
on the western side of the valley. This road is to be 
followed up the valley ; and the tourist must lose none 
of its beauties. Behind him, there are views of the 
receding lake, now diminished to the likeness of a cabinet 
picture : — below, is the deep vale with its green levels : 
opposite, the grassy slopes ascend to the ridges of High 
Street and Hill Bell; and before him, Troutbeck Tongue 
c 


36 


HIGHEST HOUSE. 


protrudes, splitting the valley into two, and being itself 
most lovely with its farmstead, and dropped thorns, and 
coppice and grey rocks: while, behind and above it, the 
vale head rises into grandeur, with its torrents leaping 
down, and its pathway winding up, indicating the pass 
into Mardale. The stranger is not going that way, 
however. He turns over a gentler pass to the left, 
which leads him, on the slope of Wansfell, away from 
Troutbeck. As he bids farewell to the Tongue, he sees 
the summit of Kirkstone before him. He is passing 
over the somewhat boggy upland where the Stock takes 
its rise, to flow down to and through Amhleside, after 
having taken the leap called Stockghyll Force. The 
tourist may see that in the evening, if there is time : — 
he is going the other way now. 

His road meets the one from Amhleside at a small 
public-house, which the Ordnance Surveyors have 
declared the highest inhabited house in England: 
and thus it is labelled by a board over the porch. In 
clear weather, the sea is seen hence, and the thread of 
smoke from its steamers. The head of Windermere 
lies like a pond below: the little Blelham tarn, near 
Wray Castle, glitters behind ; and range beyond range 
of hills recedes to the horizon. Near at hand, all is 
very wild. The Amhleside road winds up steeply 
between grey rocks and moorland pasture, and dashing 
streams ; and the Kirkstone mountain has probably 
mists driving about its head. There is something 
wilder to come, however, — the noted Kirkstone Pass, 
— the great pass of the district. The descent begins 
about a quarter of a mile beyond the house. Down 


PATTERDALE. 


37 


plunges the road, with rock and torrent on either hand, 
and the bold sweeps of Coldfield and Scandale Screes 
shutting in the pass; and the little lake of Brothers’ 
Water lying below, afar off among the green levels; 
and, closing in the whole in front, the mass of Place 
Fell, — the other side of which goes sheer down into 
Ullswater. The stranger must not omit to observe near 
the head of the pass, the fallen rock, ridged like a roof, 
whose form (like that of a miniature church) has given 
its name to its precincts. All the way as he descends 
to Brothers’ Water, the openings on the Scandale side 
(the left) charm his eye, — with their fissures, preci¬ 
pices, green slopes and levels, and knolls in the midst, 
crowned with firs. He passes through Hartsop, and 
then winds on, for three or four miles, among the rich 
levels of Patterdale, which is guarded by mountains 
jutting forwards, like promontories. The Patterdale 
Inn, kept by Mr. Uelderd, is another of the first-rate 
hotels of the district. The stranger, who must have 
left Windermere early in the morning, hastens to order 
a car or a boat, to take him to Growbarrow Park, and 
desires that dinner may await him in about three hours’ 
time. 

If the weather is calm and fine, he has a boat, to 
which he must walk across the meadows. As soon as 
he is afloat, the beauties of Ullswater open upon him, 
— the great Place Fell occupying the whole space 
to the right; and Stybarrow Crag, precipitous and 
wooded, shoots up on the left-hand hank. The road 
winds below it, under trees, passing good houses, and 
the paths to Helvellyn, and to the lead works, and to 
c 2 


88 


lyulph’s tower. 


Glencoin, — all recesses full of beauty. Tales are told 
of artists who, turning into Glencoin, to find materials 
for a sketch, have not come out again for three months, 
finding themselves overwhelmed with tempting subjects 
for the pencil. The singularly primitive character of 
the popular mind in those secluded comers is almost 
as great an incitement to study as the variety and 
richness of the foregrounds and the colouring. 

Uhswater has two bends, and is shaped like a relaxed 
Z. At the first bend, the boat draws to shore, below 
Lyulph’s Tower, an ivy-covered little castle, built for a 
shooting-box by the late Duke of Norfolk ; but it stands 
on the site of a real old tower, named, it is said, after 
the Ulf, or L’Ulf, the first Baron of Grey stoke, who 
gave its name to the lake. Some, however, insist that 
the real name is Wolfs Tower. The park which sur¬ 
rounds it, and stretches down to the lake, is studded 
with ancient trees; and the sides of its watercourses, 
and the depths of its ravines, are luxuriantly wooded. 
Vast hills, with climbing tracks, rise behind, on which 
the herds of deer are occasionally seen, like brown 
shadows from the clouds. They are safe there from 
being startled (as they are in the glades of the park) 
by strangers who come to find out Ara Force by 
following the sound of the fall. Our tourist must take 
a guide to this waterfall from the tower. 

He will be led over the open grass to the ravine, and 
then along its wooded sides on a pathway above the 
brawling stream, till he comes to a bridge, which will 
bring him in full view of the fall. As he sits in the 
cool damp nook at the bottom of the chasm, where the 



UP.’diR KBACH OP UL.SWATER. 
























































ARA FORCE. 


39 


echo of dashing and gurgling water never dies, and 
the ferns, long grasses and ash sprays wave and quiver 
everlastingly in the pulsing air; and as, looking up, he 
sees the slender line of bridge spanning the upper fall, 
he ought to know of the mournful legend which belongs 
to this place, and which Wordsworth has preserved : — 
In the olden times, a knight who loved a lady, and 
courted her in her father’s tower here, at Greystoke, 
went forth to win glory. He won great glory: and at 
first his lady rejoiced fully in it: but he was so long in 
returning, and she heard so much of his deeds in behalf 
of distressed ladies, that doubts at length stole upon 
her heart as to whether he still loved her. These 
doubts disturbed her mind in sleep : and she began to 
walk in her dreams, directing her steps towards the 
waterfall where she and her lover used to meet. Under 
a holly tree beside the fall they had plighted their 
vows, and this was the limit of her dreaming walks. 
The knight at length returned to claim her. Arriving 
in the night, he went to the ravine to rest under the 
holly until the morning should permit him to knock at 
the gate of the tower: but he saw a gliding white 
figure among the trees: and this figure reached the 
holly before him, and plucked twigs from the tree, and 
threw them into the stream. Was it the ghost of his 
lady love r or was it herself ? She stood in a dangerous 
place: he put out his hand to uphold her: the touch 
awakened her. In her terror and confusion she fell 
from his grasp into the torrent, and was carried down 
the ravine. He followed and rescued her ; but she died 
upon the bank ; not, however, without having fully 
c 3 


40 


KIRKSTONE PASS. 


understood that her lover was true, and had come to 
claim her. The knight devoted the rest of his days to 
mourn her: he built himself a cell upon the spot, and 
became a hermit for her sake. 

The visitor should ascend the steps and pathway 
from the bottom of the fall, and stand on the bridge 
that spans the leap. It is a grand thing to look down. 

He returns the way he came, by boat, to the inn, and, 
after dinner up Kirkstone Pass. He will hear and see 
enough to make him wish to come again, and stay 
awhile on Ullswater. He would like to walk along 
Place Fell, above the margin of the lake, where no car¬ 
riage road is or can be made ; and, once there, he would 
certainly climb the mountain. He would like to enter 
the bridle road, from the foot of the lake, which leads 
to Grisedale tarn, and comes out above Grasmere. He 
would like to visit Angle Tarn, on the southern end of 
Place Fell; and, yet more, Hays Water, the large lonely 
tarn above Hartsop; where the angler delights to 
seclude himself, because the trout delights in it too. It 
is a high treat to follow up the beck from the road, 
winding among the farms, and then entering the soli¬ 
tude of the pass, till the source of the stream is found 
in this tarn, a mile and a-half from the main road. The 
little lake is overhung by High Street, so that the 
Eoman eagles, as well as the native birds of the rocks, 
may have cast their shadows upon its surface. Its 
rushy and rocky margin is as wild a place as the most 
adventurous angler can ever have found himself in. Our 
traveller must, however, come again to see it; for there 
is no time to diverge to it to-day. 


AMBLESIDE. 


41 


At the house, at the top of the pass, (which he has 
walked up, in mercy to his horses) he leaves the Trout- 
beck road to the left, and descends rapidly upon 
Ambleside, which is between three and four miles from 
the house. On the left, is the valley or ravine of the 
Stock, whose waters are concealed by wood. The road 
runs along the slopes of the Scandale Fells. Below, 
Windermere opens more and more; and at length, the 
pretty little town of Ambleside appears, nestling at the 
foot of Wansfell, and the valley of the Rothay opens at 
the gazer’s feet. On the opposite margin of this green 
recess, and on the skirts of Loughrigg, he sees Fox 
How, the residence and favourite retirement of the late 
Dr. Arnold, aud now inhabited by his family. Near 
the pass which opens between Loughrigg and Fairfield, 
he is told that the residence of Wordsworth may be 
seen from below. Just under him to the left is the old 
church; and near the centre of the valley is the new 
church, — more of a blemish than an adornment, un¬ 
happily, from its size and clumsiness, and the bad taste 
of its architecture. Though placed in a valley, it has 
a spire, — the appropriate form of churches in a level 
country ; and the spire is of a different color from the 
rest of the building; and the east window is remarkably 
ugly. There have been various reductions of the 
beauty of the valley within twenty years or so; and 
this latest is the worst, because the most conspicuous. 
The old church, though not beautiful, is suitable to the 
position, and venerable by its ancient aspect. It is 
abundantly large enough for the place, except for a few 
weeks in summer: but its burial ground, inclosed by 


42 


AMBLE SIDE. 


roads on three sides, has for many years been over¬ 
crowded. Ten years ago, the state of the churchyard, 
and the health of the people who lived near it, was such 
as to make the opening of a new burial-ground a press¬ 
ing matter; and hence, no doubt, arose the new church, 
though a larger and more beautiful cemetery might 
easily have been formed in the neighbourhood. 

The descent to all the Ambleside inns is steep,— 
past the old church, and through a narrow street, and 
into the space dignified with the name of the market¬ 
place, and actually exhibiting an ancient market-cross. 
Half-a-dozen of the few shops of the town are in or 
about the market-place, and the Salutation and Com¬ 
mercial Inns and the White Lion, — the three princi¬ 
pal inns, are all conspicuous in it. If his time in 
Ambleside is precious, the stranger may use the sunset 
or twilight hour for seeing Stockghyll Force, while his 
supper is preparing. He is directed or guided through 
the stable-yard of the Salutation Inn, when he passes 
under a tall grove of old trees on the right hand, the 
stream being on the left. On the opposite bank is the 
bobbin-mill, the one industrial establishment of Amble¬ 
side, placed there on account of the abundant supply of 
coppice wood obtainable in the neighbourhood. The 
stacks of wood are seen, high up on the bank; and the 
ivy-clad dwelling of the proprietor; and then the great 
water-wheel, with its attendant spouts and weir, and 
sound of gushing and falling waters. Where the path 
forks towards and away from the stream, the visitor 
must take the left-hand one. The other is the way up 
Wansfell. His path leads him under trees, and up and 


STOCKGHYLL EORCE. 


43 


through a charming wood, with the water dashing 
and brawling further and further below, till his ear 
catches the sound of the fall: and presently after, the 
track turns to the left, and brings him to a rocky station 
whence he has a full view of the force. It is the fashion 
to speak lightly of this waterfall, — it being within 
half-a-mile of the inn, and so easily reached; but it is, 
in our opinion, a very remarkable fall, (from the symme¬ 
try of its parts,) and one of the most graceful that can 
be seen. Its leap, of about seventy feet, is split by a 
rocky protrusion, and intercepted by a ledge running 
across; so that there are four falls, — two smaller ones 
above, answering precisely to each other, and two larger 
leaps below, no less exactly resembling. The rock 
which parts them is feathered with foliage; and so are 
the sides of the ravine. Below, the waters unite in a 
rocky basin, whence they flow down to the mill, and on 
in a most picturesque torrent, through a part of Amble- 
side, and into the meadows, where they make their last 
spring down a rock near Millar Bridge, and join the 
Bothay about a mile from the lake. 

Supposing the excursion to Patterdale to be left for 
another day, the stranger will see, after turning into the 
Ambleside road from Bowness, first, Ibbotsholme, on 
the right, the residence of Samuel Taylor, Esq., just 
beyond Troutbeck Bridge. Presently, he will pass on 
the left hand, the gate of Calgarth, Bishop Watson’s 
house, now inhabited by Edward Swinburne, Esq. 
Ecclerigg, the residence of Pd. Luther Watson, Esq., 
comes next: and then Lowwood Inn, Dove’s Nest, and 
Wansfell Holme, and, on the opposite shore, Wray 


44 


INNS AND BATHS. 


Castle, all of which have been mentioned as seen from 
the lake. Clappersgate, with its white houses, nestles 
under Loughrigg, at the head of the lake; and the 
Brathay valley, with its pretty little church on its knoll, 
opens beautifully as seen from the toll-bar. From 
Water-head to Ambleside, there are residences, humble 
or handsome, on either hand. The traveller can hardly 
be wrong in his choice of an inn, as all three are comfort¬ 
able and well served. At present there are no baths in 
the place; — a singular deficiency where there is so 
much of company on the one hand and of water on 
the other. The inconvenience is, however, in the way 
of being remedied ; and it is to be hoped that another 
season will not arrive without a provision of this needful 
refreshment for the dusty and tired traveller, — to say 
nothing of the residents, who must desire it for pur¬ 
poses of health as well as enjoyment. 


THIRD TOUR. 


BY THE VALLEY OF THE BRATHAY, TO HIGH CLOSE, AND DOWN 
RED BANK TO GRASMERE AND EASTHWAITE, AND THENCE BY 
RYDAL TO AMBLESIDE. 

miles. miles. 

Ambleside to Skelwith Bridge ... ... 4 

2 High Close ... ... ... ... 6 

Grasmere... ... ... ... ... 

2 % Easedale Tarn ... ... ... 10 

2* Back to Grasmere... ... ... ... 12* 

4 Ambleside ... ... ... ... 

The stranger had better take an entire day for this 
tonr also, if he can spare the time, and means to see 
Easedale at his ease. The distance in miles is not a 
day’s journey; hut there are things to see which deserve 
a pause. 

The road to the right, after leaving the little market 
place, is the one to he taken. Between Bothay Cottage 
and Bothay Bank, the residence of John Crosfield, Esq., 
the road turns upon Bothay Bridge, whence there is a 
fine view of the vaHey, with the cul-de-sac of Fairfield 
closing it in to the north. Whether the vapours are 
gathering and tumbling in that basin, — the recess of 
Fairfield, — or whether every projection, streak, slide, 
and mossy tract is clearly visible, that northern barrier 
is very imposing ; and perhaps most so to those who are 
most familiar with it, and can read its manifold weather 
signs and tokens. Between Bothay Bridge and Clap- 


4G 


BRATIIAY COTTRCIIYARD. 


persgate is Croft Lodge, the residence of James Holme, 
Esq.; — the mansion and its woods being on the right 
of the road, and the gardens stretching down to the 
river on the left. Then comes the pretty hamlet of 
Clappersgate, so conspicuous from the lake; and two 
roads branch off, leading along each hank of the river 
Brathay, and meeting at Skelwith Bridge at the other 
end of the valley. If the stranger has any thought of 
ascending Loughrigg, some other day, he may now see, 
above Clappersgate, the path by which he may ascend 
or descend; a zig-zag path up the hill side, leading to 
the two peaks, crowning the south end of Loughrigg, 
from between which the most perfect possible view of 
Windermere is obtained. That cannot, however, be 
done to-day. The left-hand road should now be taken, 
crossing Brathay Bridge, and passing the parson¬ 
age. When the stranger sees the churchyard gate, he 
must alight, and walk up to the church. From the 
rock there he commands the mountain range from Con- 
iston Old Man to the Langdale Pikes : the Brathay 
flows beneath, through its quiet meadows; and its 
dashing among the rocks, just under his feet, catches 
his ear; — Loughrigg, with its copses and crags and 
purple heather, rises immediately before him: and to 
the right he sees a part of Ambleside nestling between 
the hills, and a stretch of the lake. This churchyard 
has the first daffodils and snowdrops on the southern 
side of its rock; and, in its copse, the earliest wood 
anemones. Throughout the valley, spring flowers, and 
the yellow and white broom abound. 

The road ascends and descends abruptly, and winds 


LOTTGIIEIGG TAEN. 


47 


towards, and away from, the right hank of the Brathay, 
till it reaches Skelwith Fold. There the stranger must 
alight again, and go through a field gate to the right, 
to a rocky point, where he commands the finest view 
of the valley and its environs. And again, just before 
he comes to Skelwith Bridge, he must go through the 
gap in the wall to the left, and follow the field-track 
until he comes in sight of Skelwith Force. He will 
hardly aver that he ever saw a more perfect picture than 
this, — with the fall in the centre, closed in by rock 
and wood on either hand, and by the Langdale Pikes 
behind, lieturning to his car, he will next pass over 
the bridge, and the roaring torrent beneath, and by 
stacks of wood, — (more coppice wood for another 
bobbin-mill,) and, turning to the right, will find that 
he has headed the valley. As he is not going home, 
however, but to Grasmere, he turns out of the Brathay 
valley by a steep road on the left, which ascends again 
and again, leading by farmsteads almost as primitive as 
those of Troutbeck, and evidently mounting the spurs 
of Loughrigg, — which he is travelling round to-day, 
and which must therefore he always on his right hand. 
After a while, he comes to a sheet of water, so still, if 
the day he calm, that he might possibly miss it, unless 
the precision of the reflections should strike his eye. 
It is more likely, however, to he rippled by some breeze, 
and to show how deeply blue, or darkly grey, these 
mountain tarns may he. This is Loughrigg tarn, well 
known to all readers of Wordsworth. At some little 
distance beyond it, the stranger must diverge from his 
road to visit High Close, and see the view which is re- 


48 


LANGDALE. 


puted the finest in Westmorland. He may leave his 
car where the road to High Close ascends to the left, 
and walk to the farm-house at the top. As there are 
probably lodgers, he had better not present himself at 
the garden door, hut go on to the farmyard gate, pass 
through the yard to the field, and walk along the brow 
till he reaches the grey stone bench. There he is! 
overlooking “the finest view in Westmorland.” To 
the extreme right, Bowfell closes in the Langdale 
valley, the head of which is ennobled by the swelling 
masses of the Pikes. A dark cleft in the nearer one is 
the place where the celebrated Dungeon Ghyll Force is 
plunging and foaming, beyond the reach of eye and ear. 
He can gather from this station, something of the 
character of Langdale. It has levels, here expanding, 
there contracting; and the stream winds among them 
from end to end. There is no lake: and the mountains 
send out spurs, alternating or meeting, so as to make 
the levels sometimes circular and sometimes winding. 
The dwellings are on the rising grounds which skirt the 
levels; and this, together with the paving of the road 
below, shows that the valley is subject to floods. The 
houses, of grey-stone, each on its knoll, with a canopy 
of firs and sycamores above it, and ferns scattered all 
around, and ewes and lambs nestling near it, these 
primitive farms are cheerful and pleasant objects to look 
upon, whether from above or passing among them. 
Nearer at hand are some vast quarries of blue slate. 
Below, among plantations, are seen the roofs of the 
Elterwater Powder Mills; whence the road winds 
through the village of Langdale Chapel, to the margin 








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is * * i 

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• * • J 






* * . : ■ 

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• I 





GRASMERE, FROM RED BANK. 


































RED BANK. 


49 


of the pools which make up the lake. From their 
opposite shore rise the hills, height above height, — 
range beyond range. To the left lies Loughrigg Tarn, 
and, in the distance, Windermere, with Wray Castle 
prominent on its height, and the Lancashire hills clos¬ 
ing in the view. It is a singular prospect, at once noble 
and lovely; and the comfortable lodgings at High Close 
farm are in request accordingly. 

The car is waiting where the traveller left it; hut he 
had better walk for half-a-mile or so, — the descent of 
Red Bank being very steep. The great mountain that 
swells so grandly above the rest before him is Helvellyn. 
The lake that opens below is Grasmere, with its one 
island, made up of green slope, black fir clump, and grey 
barn. At the further end lies the village, with its old 
square church tower, beneath whose shadow Words¬ 
worth is buried. The white road that winds like a 
ribbon up and up the gap between Helvellyn and the 
opposite fells is the mail road to Keswick, and the gap 
is Dunmail Raise. The remarkable and beautiful hill 
behind the village is Helm Crag; and its rocky crest 
forms the group called the Lion and the Lamb. The 
long white house, near the foot of Helvellyn, is the 
Swan Inn, whence Scott, Southey, and Wordsworth, 
set forth on ponies for the ascent of the mountain: and 
behind it rises the path by which pedestrians come from 
Grasmere to Patterdale, by the margin of Grisedale 
tarn, — the mountain tarn of the wild boar, as the 
words properly signify. To the left of Helm Crag, a 
deep valley evidently opens. That is Easedale; and 
there our tourist is to go to-day. Meantime, let him 


50 


GRASMERE INNS. 


linger awhile, that he may learn by heart every feature 
of this gay and lovely scene. The lane he has just 
passed to the right leads him to the grassy bridle-road 
called Loughrigg Terrace, whence the best views are 
obtained of both Grasmere and Rydal lakes, and which 
leads along the uplands and then by Rydal Lake back 
to the valley of the Rotliay. We must leave it now, and 
plunge down Red Bank, which has the characteristics 
of a Norwegian road. At the cistern at the bottom, 
the stranger enters his car, and passes farm houses 
between him and the lake, and villas on the rocky and 
wooded bank on the left; and, at the corner, where the 
road turns to the village, the cluster of lodging-houses, 
called St. Oswald’s, where the Hydropathic Establish¬ 
ment struggled on for a time, but found the Westmor¬ 
land winters too long for invalids. 

The driver must stop at the Red Lion, to order 
dinner. It is an old-fashioned little place, where the 
traveller’s choice is usually between ham and eggs and 
eggs and ham; with the addition, however, of cheese 
and oat cake. He goes to the Red Lion now merely 
because it is on the way to his destination. If he were 
going to stay at Grasmere, he would take up his abode 
at the Hotel kept by Mr. Brown. The beauty of the 
view from that house is evident at a glance; and good 
accommodations will be found within, with ample 
means of conveyance of all kinds. Whatever the 
dinner at the Red Lion is to be, it must not be 
ready under two or three hours; — rather three 
than two. He proceeds for a mile between fences 
before he reaches the opening of Easedale. The gate 


EASEDALE TARN. 


51 


and shrubbery to the right are the entrance to Lady 
Richardson’s cottage; and there the regular road ends. 
The car can go about a mile further along the farm 
tracks in the valley, through the meadows which yield 
a coarse hay, and near the stream which is tufted with 
alders. At the farm house where the car stops, the 
people will shew the stranger the way he must go, — 
past the plantation, and up the hill side, where he will 
find the track that will guide him up to the waterfall, 
— the foaming cataract which is seen all over the valley, 
and is called Sour Milk Grhyll Force. The water and 
the track together will shew him the way to the tarn, 
which is the source of the stream. Up and on he goes, 
over rock and through wet moss, with long stretches of 
dry turf and purple heather; and at last, when he is 
heated and breathless, the dark cool recess opens in 
which lies Easedale Tarn. Perhaps there is an angler 
standing besides the great boulder on the brink. Per¬ 
haps there is a shepherd lying among the ferns. But 
more probably the stranger finds himself perfectly alone. 
There is perhaps nothing in natural scenery which 
conveys such an impression of stillness as tarns which 
lie under precipices: and here the rocks sweep down to 
the brink almost round the entire margin. For hours 
together the deep shadows move only like'the gnomon 
of the sundial; and, when movement occurs, it is not 
such as disturbs the sense of repose; ■—the dimple 
made by a restless fish or fly, or the gentle flow of 
water in or out; or the wild drake and his brood, pad¬ 
dling so quietly as not to break up the mirror, or the 
reflection of some touch of sunlight, or passing shadow. 

D 


52 


avoedswoeth’s geave. 


If there is commotion from gusts or eddies of wind, 
the effect is even more remarkable. Little white clouds 
are driven against the rocks, — the spray is spilled in 
unexpected places; now the precipices are wholly 
veiled, and there is nothing hut the ruffled water to he 
seen: and again, in an instant, the rocks are disclosed 
so fearfully that they seem to he crowding together to 
crush the intruder. If this seems to the inexperienced 
like extravagance, let him go alone to Easedale Tarn, or 
to Angle Tarn on Bowfell, on a gusty day, and see 
what he will find. 

After his return to the Eed Lion, and his dinner, the 
stranger will go to the churchyard. In the church is 
a medallion portrait of Wordsworth, accompanied by 
an inscription adapted from a dedication of Mr. Kehle’s. 
The simple and modest tombstone in the churchyard 
will please him better. At present it hears only the 
name of the poet, — in his case, an all-sufficient memo¬ 
rial : hut it is understood that some dates and other 
particulars will he filled in hereafter. Beside him lies 
his only daughter, and next to her, her husband, — 
whose first wife is next him on the other side. Some 
other children of Wordsworth, who died young, are 
buried near; and one grandchild. Close behind the 
family group lies Hartley Coleridge, at whose funeral 
the white-haired Wordsworth attended, not very long 
before his own death. This spot, under the yews, be¬ 
sides the gushing Rothay and encircled by green 
mountains, is a fitting resting-place for the poet of the 
region. He chose it himself; and every one rejoices 
that he did. 


BYDAL LAKE. 


53 


Just after entering the mail road, the driver will 
point out the cottage in which the poet and his sister 
lived, many long years ago, when Scott was their guest. 
Several good houses have sprung up near it, within a 
few years. The promontory which here cause* the lake 
to contract to the little river (which is called the 
Eothay in all the intervals of the chain of lakes,) may 
he passed in three ways. The mail road runs round its 
point, and therefore keeps beside the water; — the 
Homan road, where the Wishing G-ate used to he, 
crosses it hy a rather steep ascent and descent; — and 
a shorter road still, steeper and boggy, cuts across its 
narrowest part, and comes out at the Rydal Quarries. 
Our traveller will take the mail road, probably. It will 
soon bring him to Rydal Lake; and he cannot but 
think the valley very lovely in the summer afternoon. 
On the opposite side of the lake is Loughrigg, with its 
terrace-walk distinctly visible half-way up. The islands 
are wooded; and on one of them is a heronry; and the 
grey bird, with its long flapping wings, is most likely 
visible, either in flight, or perched on a tree near its 
nest, or fishing in the shallows. Nab Scar, the blunt 
end of Fan-field, which overlooks the road and the lake, 
is very fine with its water-worn channels, its wood, and 
grey rocks. Nab Cottage, the humble white house by 
the road side, and on the margin of the lake, is the 
place where Hartley Coleridge lived and died. In the 
distance, Ivy Cottage peeps out of the green ; and fur¬ 
ther on, Rydal Chapel rises out of the foliage on the 
verge of the park. 

When the turn to the left, which leads up to that 

n 2 


54 


WORDSWORTH* S GARDEN. 


chapel, is reached, the stranger must alight, and ascend 
it. He is ascending Rydal Mount: and Wordsworth’s 
house is at the top of the hill, — within the modest 
gate on the left. If the family should be absent, the 
traveller may possibly obtain entrance, and stand on 
the mossgrown eminence, (like a little Homan camp,) 
in front of the house, whence he may view the whole 
valley of the Rothay to the utmost advantage. Win¬ 
dermere in the distance is, as Wordsworth used to say, 
a light thrown into the picture, in the winter season, 
and, in summer, a beautiful feature, changing with 
every hue of the sky. The whole garden is a true 
poet’s garden; its green hollows, its straight terraces, 
bordered with beds of periwinkle, and tall foxgloves, 
purple and white, — (the white being the poet’s 
favourite) ; and then the summer house, — (now, how¬ 
ever, damp and dreary, with the fircones that line it 
dropping out of their places) ; and then the opening of 
the door, which discloses the other angle of the pros¬ 
pect, — Rydal Pass, with the lake lying below. Every 
resident in the neighbourhood thinks the situation of 
his own house the best: but most agree that Words¬ 
worth’s comes next. We should say that Words¬ 
worth’s came next to Mr. Sheldon’s at Miller Brow, 
hut for the great disadvantage of the long and steep 
ascent to it. That ascent is a serious last stage of a 
walk on a hot summer day ; but the privileges of the 
spot, when once reached, are almost incomparable. 

The guide to the Rydal Falls will by this time have 
presented herself, and the tourist must visit them. 
They are within the park, and cannot he seen without 


EYDAL .FALLS. 


55 


a guide : but some one is always to be found at one of 
the two guides’ cottages on the ascent of the hill. 
The upper fall is the finest, in the eyes of those who 
prefer the most natural accessaries of a cascade: but 
the lower is the one generally represented by artists, — 
the summer-house from which it is viewed affording an 
admirable picture-frame, and the basin of rock, and the 
bridge above, constituting, in truth, a very perfect 
picture. When there is a dash of sunshine on the ver¬ 
dure, behind and under the bridge, to contrast with the 
shadowy basin and pool of the fall, the subject is tempt¬ 
ing enough to the artist. 

These falls seen, the tourist need alight from his car 
no more, for he is only a mile and a-half from Amble- 
side. He presently passes Pelter Bridge, which spans 
the Rothay on the right. That is the way to Fox 
How: and he presently sees Fox How, — the grey 
house embosomed in trees, — at the foot of Loughrigg. 
He must not mistake for it the gem of a house that he 
sees, — the cream-coloured one, veiled in roses, with the 
conservatories beside it, just under the wooded preci¬ 
pice : — that is Foxghyll, the residence of Hornby 
Roughsedge, Esq. To the left, there are good views of 
Rydal Park. Approaching Ambleside, the first house 
to the left is Lesketh How, the residence of Dr. Davy: 
the white house to the right is Tranby Lodge, the 
abode of Alfred Barkworth, Esq.: and the house on the 
rising ground behind the chapel is the Knoll, the resi¬ 
dence of Miss. H. Martineau. The gates on the left 
are those of Green Bank, the estate of Benson Harrison, 
Esq.: and the pretty cottage next reached on the same 
d 3 


56 


AMBLESIDE. 


side is that of James C. Wilson, Esq., called Low Nook. 
The stream to the right is the Stock, making its way 
to the river: and the odd little grey dwelling built 
above it is the ancient house which is considered the 
most curious relic in Ambleside of the olden time. The 
view of the mill and the rocky channel of the Stock on 
the left of the bridge is the one which every artist 
sketches as he passes by ; and if there is in the Exhibi¬ 
tion in London, in any year, a view at Ambleside, it is 
probably this. The Kirkstone road now joins the mail 
road, and the tourist finds himself on old ground, — in 
Ambleside market-place. 


A DAY ON THE MOUNTAINS. 


The stranger has now made his three tours. There 
is one thing more that he must do before he goes on 
into Cumberland. He must spend a day on the Moun¬ 
tains : and if alone, so much the better. If he knows 
what it is to spend a day so far above the every-day 
world, he is aware that it is good to be alone, (unless 
there is danger in the case) ; and, if he is a novice, let 
him try whether it be not so. Let him go forth early, 
with a stout stick in his hand, provision for the day in 
his knapsack or his pocket; and, if he chooses, a book: 
but we do not think he will read to-day. A map is 
essential, to explain to him what he sees : and it is very 
weU to have a pocket compass, in case of sudden fog, 
or any awkward doubt about the way. In case of an 
ascent of a formidable mountain, like Scawfell or Hel- 
vellyn, it is rash to go without a guide : but our tourist 
shall undertake something more moderate, and reason¬ 
ably safe, for a beginning. 

What mountain shall it be ? He might go up 
Blackcombe, on his way to or from Furness : and from 
thence he might see, in fair weather, as Wordsworth 
tells us, “ a more extensive view than from any other 
point in Britain,” — seven English counties, and seven 



58 


CHOICE OF A MOUNTAIN. 


Scotch, a good deal of Wales, the Isle of Man, and in 
some lucky moment, just before sunrise (as the Ordnance 
surveyors say) the coast of Ireland. This is very fine; 
hut it is hardly what is looked for in the lake district, 
— the sea being the main feature. He might go up 
the Old Man from Coniston ; hut there are the copper 
works, and there is the necessity of a guide : and it is a 
long way to go for the day’s treat. If he ascends the 
Langdale Pikes, it had better he from some interior 
station; and the rest of the great peaks will he best 
commanded from Keswick. Of those within reach of 
Amhleside, which shall it he ? Loughrigg is very easy 
and very charming ; but it is not commanding enough. 
From the surrounding heights it looks like a mere 
rambling hill. Wansfell is nearest, and also easy and 
safe. It may be reached by a charming walk from 
Low Wood Inn, and descended by the Stockgliyll lane, 
above Amhleside. The immediate neighbourhood is 
mapped out below ; and there is a long and wide open¬ 
ing to the south: but to the north-east, and everywhere 
round the head of the lake, the view is stopped, first by 
Nab Scar, and then by other heights. Why should it 
not be Nab Scar itself? or, the whole of Fairfield? 
That excursion is safe, not over fatiguing, practicable 
for a summer day, and presenting scenery as character¬ 
istic as can be found. Let it be Fairfield. 

The stranger should ascend to the ridge, either 
through Rydal forest, (for which leave is requisite, and 
not always easily obtained,) or by the road to 
the Nook which anybody will shew him. The 
Nook is a farmhouse in a glorious situation as he will 


MOUNTAIN FENCES. 


59 


see when he gets there and steps into the field on the 
left, to look abroad from the brow. He then passes 
under its old trees to where the voice of falling waters 
calls him onward. Scandale Beck comes tumbling 
down its rocky channel, close at hand. He must cross 
the bridge, and follow the cart-road, which brings him 
out at once upon the fells. What he has to aim at is 
the ridge above By dal forest or park, from whence his 
way is plain, — round the whole cul-de-sac of Fairfield, 
to Nab Scar. He sees it all; and the only thing is to 
do it: and we know of no obstacle to his doing it, unless 
it he the stone wall which divides the Scandale from the 
Bydal side of the ridge. These stone walls are an in¬ 
convenience to pedestrians, and a great blemish in the 
eyes of strangers. In the first place, however, it is to 
be said that an open way is almost invariably left, up 
every mountain, if the rover can hut find it; and, in 
the next place, the ugliness of these climbing fences 
disappears marvellously when the stranger learns how 
they came there. — In the old times, when there were 
wolves, and when the abbots of the surrounding Norman 
monasteries encouraged their tenants to approach nearer 
and nearer to the Saxon fastnesses, the shepherds were 
allowed to inclose crofts about their hillside huts, for 
the sake of browsing their flocks on the sprouts of the 
ash and holly with which the hillsides were then 
wooded, and of protecting the sheep from the wolves 
which haunted the thickets. The inclosures certainly 
spread up the mountain sides, at this day, to a height 
where they would not he seen if ancient custom had 
not drawn the lines which are thus preserved; and it 


60 


RYDAL PARK. 


appears, from historical testimony, that these fences 
existed before the fertile valleys were portioned out 
among many holders. Higher and higher ran these 
stone inclosures, — threading the woods, and joining on 
upon the rocks. Now, the woods are for the most part 
gone; and the walls offend and perplex the stranger’s 
eye and mind by their unsightliness and apparent use¬ 
lessness ; hut it is a question whether, their origin once 
known, they would he willingly parted with, — remind¬ 
ing us as they do of the times when the tenants of the 
abbots or military nobles formed a link between the 
new race of inhabitants and the Saxon remnant of the 
old. One of these walls it is which runs along the 
ridge and bounds Rydal Park. There may he a gate in 
it; or one which enables the stranger to get round it. 
If not, he must get over it; and, if he does so, high 
enough up, it may save him another climb. The 
nearer the ridge, the fewer the remaining walls between 
him and liberty. Once in the forest, Christopher 
North’s advice comes into his mind, — unspoiled by the 
fear, only too reasonable in the lower part of the park, 
— of being turned out of the paradise, very summarily. 
“The sylvan, or rather, the forest scenery of Rydal 
Park,” says Professor Wilson, “was, in the memory of 
living man, magnificent; and it still contains a treasure 
of old trees. By all means wander away into these old 
woods, and lose yourself for an hour or two among the 
cooing of cushats and the shrill shriek of startled 
blackbirds, and the rustle of the harmless glow-worm 
among the last year’s beech leaves. No very great 
harm should you even fall asleep under the shadow of 


MOUNTAIN SOLITUDE. 


61 


an oak, whilst the magpie chatters at safe distance^ and 
the more innocent squirrel peeps down upon you from 
a bough of the canopy, and then, hoisting his tail, 
glides into the obscurity of the loftiest umbrage.” — 
Ascending from these shades through a more straggling 
woodland, the stranger arrives at a clump on the ridge, 
— the last clump, and thenceforth feels himself wholly 
free. His foot is on the springy mountain moss ; and 
many a cushion of heather tempts him to sit down and 
look abroad. There may still he a frightened cow or 
two, wheeling away, with tail aloft, as he comes on¬ 
wards ; and a few sheep are still crouching in the 
shadows of the rocks, or staring at him from the knolls. 
If he plays the child and bleats, he will soon see how 
many there are. It is one of the amusements of a good 
mimic in such places to bring about him all the animals 
there are, by imitating their cries. One may assemble 
a flock of sheep, and lead them far out of hounds in this 
way; and bewildered enough they look when the bleat 
ceases, and they are left to find their way hack again. 
It is in such places as this that the truth of some of 
Wordsworth’s touches may he recognised, which are 
most amusing to cockney readers. Perhaps no passage 
has been more ridiculed than that which tells of the 
“solemn bleat” of 

“ a lamb left somewhere to itself. 

The plaintive spirit of the solitude.” 

The laughers are thinking of a cattle market, or a 
flock of sheep on a dusty road ; and they know nothing 
of the effect of a single bleat of a stray lamb high up 
on the mountains. If they had ever felt the profound 


62 


BAIN - GUAGES. 


stillness of the higher fells, or heard it broken by the 
plaintive cry, repeated and not answered, they would 
he aware that there is a true solemnity in the sound. 

Still further on, when the sheep are all left behind, 
he may see a hawk perched upon a great boulder. He 
will see it take flight when he comes near, and cleave 
the air below him, and hang above the woods, — to the 
infinite terror, as he knows, of many a small creature 
there, and then whirl away to some distant part of the 
park. Perhaps a heavy buzzard may rise, flapping, 
from its nest on the moor, or pounce from a crag in the 
direction of any water-birds that may be about the 
springs and pools in the hills. There is no other sound, 
unless it he the hum of the gnats in the hot sunshine. 
There is an aged man in the district, however, who 
hears more than this, and sees more than people below 
would, perhaps, imagine. An old shepherd has the 
charge of four rain guages which are set up on four 
ridges, — desolate, misty spots, sometimes below and 
often above the clouds. He visits each once a month, 
and notes down what these guages record ; and when 
the tall old man, with his staff, passes out of sight into 
the cloud, or among the cresting rocks, it is a striking 
thought that science has set up a tabernacle in these 
wildernesses, and found a priest among the shepherds. 
That old man has seen and heard wonderful things : — 
has trod upon rainbows, and been waited upon by a 
dim retinue of spectral mists. He has seen the hail 
and the lightnings go forth as from under his hand, 
and has stood in the sunshine, listening to the thunder 
growling, and the tempest bursting beneath his feet. 


FAIRFIELD. 


63 


He well knows the silence of the hills, and all the solemn 
ways in which that silence is broken. The stranger, 
however, coming hither on a calm summer day may 
well fancy that a silence like this can never he broken. 

Looking abroad, what does he see ? The first im¬ 
pression probably is of the billowy character of the 
mountain groups around and below him. This is per¬ 
haps the most striking feature of such a scene to a 
novice; and the next is the flitting character of the 
mists. One ghostly peak after another seems to rise 
out of its shroud; and then the shroud winds itself 
round another. Here the mist floats over a valley; 
there it reeks out of a chasm: here it rests upon a 
green slope ; there it curls up a black precipice. The 
sunny vales below look like a paradise, with their bright 
meadows and waters and shadowy woods, and little 
knots of villages. To the south there is the glittering 
sea ; and the estuaries of the Leven and Duddon, with 
their stretches of yellow sands. To the east there is a 
sea of hill tops. On the north, Ullswater appears, 
grey and calm at the foot of black precipices; and 
nearer may he traced the whole pass from Patter- 
dale, where Brothers’ Water lies invisible from hence. 
The finest point of the whole excursion is about the 
middle of the cul-de-sac , where, on the northern sides, 
there are tremendous precipices, overlooking Deepdale, 
and other sweet recesses far below. Here, within hear¬ 
ing of the torrents which tumble from those precipices, 
the rover should rest. He will see nothing so fine as 
the contrast of this northern view with the long green 
slope on the other side, down to the source of Rydal 


64 


TEN LAKES AND TARNS. 


Beck, and then down and down to By dal Woods and 
Mount. He is now 2,950 feet above the sea level; and 
he has surely earned his meal. If the wind troubles 
him, he can doubtless find a sheltered place under a 
rock. If he can sit on the hare ridge, he is the more 
fortunate. 

The further he goes, the more amazed he is at the 
extent of the walk, which looked such a trifle from be¬ 
low. Waking out of a reverie, an hour after dinner, he 
sees that the sun is some way down the western sky. 
He hastens on, not heeding the boggy spaces, and 
springing along the pathless heather and moss, seeing 
more and more lakes and tarns every quarter of an 
hour. In the course of the day he sees ten. Winder- 
mere, and little Blelham Tarn beyond, he saw first. 
Ullswater was below him to the north when he dined ; 
and, presently after, a tempting path guided his eye to 
Grisedale Tarn, lying in the pass from Patterdale to 
Grasmere. Here are four. Next, comes Grasmere, 
with Easedale Tarn above it, in its mountain hollow: 
then Bydal, of course, at his feet; and Elterwater 
beyond the western ridges; and finally, to the south¬ 
west, Esthwaite Water and Coniston. There are the 
ten. Eight of these may be seen at once from at least 
one point — Nab Scar, whence he must take his last 
complete survey ; for from hence he must plunge down 
the steep slope, and bid farewell to all that lies behind 
the ridge. The day has gone like an hour. The sun¬ 
shine is leaving the surface of the nearer lakes, and the 
purple bloom of the evening is on the further moun¬ 
tains ; and the gushes of yellow fight between the 


EETUE2f. 


65 


western passes show that sunset is near. He must 
hasten down, — mindful of the opening between the 
fences, which he remarked from below, and which, if he 
finds, he cannot lose his way. He does not seriously 
lose his way, though crag and bog make him diverge 
now and then. Descending between the inclosures, he 
sits down once or twice, to relieve the fatigue to the 
ancle and instep of so continuous a descent, and to 
linger a little over the beauty of the evening scene. As 
he comes down into the basin where Bydal Beck makes 
its last gambols and leaps, before entering the park, he 
is sensible of the approach of night. Loughrigg seems 
to rise : the hills seem to close him in, and the twilight 
to settle down. He comes to a gate, and finds himself 
in the civilised world again. He descends the green 
lane at the top of Bydal Mount, comes out just above 
Wordsworth’s gate, finds his car at the bottom of the 
hill, — (the driver beginning to speculate on whether 
any accident has befallen the gentleman on the hills,) — 
is driven home, and is amazed, on getting out, to find 
how stiff and tired he is. He would not, however, but 
have spent such a day for ten times the fatigue. He 
will certainly ascend Helvellyn, and every other moun¬ 
tain that comes in his way. 





















EXCURSIONS TO AND PROM 
KESWICK. 


FROM THE SWAN INN, GRASMERE, TO KESWICK. 


MILES. MILES. 


H 

Swan Inn, Grasmere, to Tollbar 

Dunmail Raise. 

.. n 
2* 

l 

Horse Head Inn, Wythbum, & Helvellyn 

.. 3* 

1 

Thirlmere Lake . 

4i 

3 

Legberthwaite . 

.. 7i 

3* 

Summit of Castlerigg. 

lOf 

u 

Keswick. 

.. 12 


Tollbar. — From this point the road rises in a steep 
though gradual ascent to an elevation of 720 feet. On 
the right hand will he seen Fairfield and Seat Sandal, 
and left, Helm Crag, a singularly-shaped hill, affording 
from its summit a delightful prospect. The curious 
appearance presented by its rugged apex has given rise 
to some fanciful comparisons. Seen from one part of 
the valley it strikingly resembles a lion couchant, with 
a lamb lying at its nose : from another, an old woman 
cowering. Wordsworth in his “ Johanna,” designates 
it as 

“ That ancient woman seated on Helm Crag/’ 

And again, in the “ Waggoner,” thus alludes to this 
singular appearance, giving, as will be seen, a companion 
to the Ancient Woman. 


E 



68 


HELVELLYX. 


“ The Astrologer, sage Sidrophel, 

Where at his desk he nightly sits. 

Puzzling on high his curious wits; 

He, whose domain is held in common. 

With no one but the ancient woman: 

Cowering beside her rightful cell. 

As if intent on magic spell. 

Dread pair, that, spite of wind and weather. 

Still sit upon Helm Crag together V* 

Dunmail Baise.— This celebrated pass admits the 
traveller into Cumberland. A Cairn, or pile of stones, 
is said by tradition, to have been raised here, in the 
year 945, by Edmund, the Anglo Saxon King, in com¬ 
memoration of a victory gained over Dunmail, the 
British King of Cumbria. The British King was slain 
here, and his territory given to Malcolm, King of Scot¬ 
land. Part of this cairn still remains. 

“ They now have reached that pile of stones 
Heap’d over brave King DunmaiFs hones : 

He who once held supreme command. 

Last King of rocky Cumberland; 

His hones, and those of all his power. 

Slain here in a disastrous hour.” — Wordswobth. 

Horse Head Inn, Wythbum. — Opposite the inn 
stands the small chapel described by Wordsworth as 
“ Wytbbum’s modest house of prayer, 

As lonely as the lowliest dwelling.” 

The small hamlet is Wythburn village, locally termed 
the “city.” 

The road passes along the base of the mighty Hel- 
vellyn. The ascent of Helvellyn is very frequently 
commenced from the Horse Head Inn: the distance 


VALLEY OF ST. JOHN. 


69 


from tliis point being shorter than from any other 
station; though the acclivity, it should be mentioned, 
is so steep as to render the attempt, as an equestrian 
feat to be attended with some degree of danger if not 
provided with a guide and a sure-footed pony. 

Thirlmere Lake or Wythburn Water, or, as it is 
sometimes called, Leathes Water. — An irregular area 
of water measuring in length about two and a-half 
miles, narrowing in its middle part to a channel, over 
which is thrown a wooden bridge. Some grandly- 
frowning precipices overhang the eastern side of the 
lake. Eagle Crag at its upper, and Eaven Crag at its 
lower, or north end, form distinguished features in the 
scene. 

King’s Head Inn. — At the sixth milestone from 
Grasmere, a divergence from the main road to the left, 
will carry the pedestrian over the wooden bridge, cross¬ 
ing to the western shore, rejoining the turnpike near 
the fourth milestone. To the picturesque scenery of 
Thirlmere and its adjuncts, full appreciation can only 
be given by making this detour . 

Losing sight of the lake for a time, on descending 
into the vale of Legberthwaite, a noble view, stretching 
down the vales of Legberthwaite and St. John’s, reveals 
itself; on the right an extension of the Helvellyn range; 
and on the left, the rocky fells of Naddle, bound in the 
scene; whilst Blencathra, with its furrowed front and 
peculiarly-shaped summit, which lias given to it the 
more modem name of Saddleback, stands out in the 
distance, forming an admirable back-ground. Green 
Crag, better known perhaps by its classic name of the 
E 2 


70 


KESWICK. 


“ Castle Rock,” is situated at the entrance of the valley 
of St. John, to the right. It is the scene of Sir Walter 
Scott’s charming romance of the “ Bride of Triermain,” 
though its magic halls have long since melted away, its 
massive walls and turrets still remain, for 

“ When a pilgrim strays 
In morning mist, or evening maze. 

Along the mountain lone, 

Tliat fairy fortress often mocks 
His gaze upon the castled rocks 

Of the valley of St. John.” 

Smaithwaite Bridge. — Here the tourist will cross 
over St. John’s beck, which issues from Thirlmere, and 
pass Shoulthwaite Moss. In three and a-half miles, 
the summit of Castlerigg is reached. The descent from 
which hill unfolds without exception, the richest moun¬ 
tain scenery in England. 

KESWICK. 

Keswick forms a good central station from which the 
northern Lakes’ District may be conveniently visited. 
The Hotels are Royal Oak, Queen’s Head, George, 
King’s Arms, &c. Staple Manufactory — Blacklead 
Pencils and Woollen Goods. The Institutions, Public 
Buildings, &c., are Keswick Library, 2,000 volumes ; 
Mechanics’ Institution, 500 volumes, with newspapers, 
periodicals, &c.; and the Gentlemens’ and Tradesmens’ 
News Room. Population in 1851, 2,618. 

The Parish Church of Crosthwaite, distant about 
three-quarters of a mile from the town, in a northerly 


KESWICK. 


71 


direction, is an ancient structure, dedicated to St. Ken- 
tigern, alias St. Mungo. The interior was restored in 
1845, at an expense of £4,500, principally defrayed by 
Jam.es Stanger, Esq., Lairthwaite. The mortal remains 
of Robert Southey, late poet-laureate, are interred in 
the churchyard. In the church is placed a full-length 
recumbent figure of the poet, in white marble, from the 
studio of Lough. Here also is an ancient monument of 
the Radclifle family, beneath which repose two full- 
length figures of a knight and lady. The baptismal 
font in use, evidently belongs to a remote period, and 
forms an interesting object of study to the antiquarian. 

Crosthwaite’s Museum contains a variety of ancient 
British, Roman, Saxon, and Norman antiquities, found 
chiefly in Cumberland and Westmorland; numerous 
specimens of rocks, minerals, plants, &c., illustrating 
the natural history of the district; Roman and early 
English coins; both home and foreign curiosities; 
manuscript and black-letter volumes; also some good 
specimens of early typography. 

Greta Hall, for upwards of forty years the residence 
of Southey, stands on rising ground about 200 yards 
to the right of the bridge crossing the Greta, at the 
northern extremity of the town. 

An inspection of the Pencil Mills will well repay a 
visit. 

St. John’s Church, situate at the upper end of the 
town, was erected in 1839 by the late John Marshall, 
Esq., M.P., Leeds, at a cost of £6,000. Mr. Marshall’s 
remains, as well as those of the Rev. Frederick Myers, 
the late revered incumbent, repose in the interior. At 
E 3 


72 


KESWICK. 


a short distance is the Parsonage, the residence of the 
present incumbent, the Bev. T. D. H. Battersby, M.A. 

Flintoft’s Model is on view daily at the Town Hall, 
constructed on a scale of three inches to a mile: 
measures twelve feet nine inches by nine feet three 
inches, including the whole of the Lake District, and is 
beautifully coloured after nature. To the tourist this 
specimen of geographical modelling is peculiarly inter¬ 
esting. Drs. Buckland, Dalton, Professor Sedgwick, 
and a host of other scientific men have borne testimony 
to its perfect accuracy as a work of art. 

The Druid’s Temple, situate one and a-half miles from 
Keswick, a little to the right of the old road leading to 
Penrith, consists of rough unhewn stones, forty-eight 
in number, describing a figure approaching in form to 
an oval: with a rectangular recess on the east side, 
formed of lesser stones. The site is of commanding 
elevation, and affords a fine view of mountain scenery : 
the whole of Skiddaw, Blencathra, and Helvellyn ranges 
presenting themselves prominently before the eye of the 
spectator. 

Castlehead Bock is within a quarter of a mile of the 
town, and commands an extensive view of Derwent 
Lake, vale, and surrounding mountains. 

Walla Crag is a still more commanding eminence, 
overlooking the whole valley. To those who do not 
make the ascent of Skiddaw, a visit to this place is 
strongly recommended. 








• w * 









• 








































* 






DERWENT WATER, FROM CASTLE HEAD. 

































LAKE DERWENT. 


73 


CIRCUIT OF DERWENT LAKE FROM KESWICK. 

MILES. MILES. 

Keswick to Barrow House . 2 

1 Lodore Hotel. 3 

1 Village of Grange. 4 

1 Bowder Stone. 5 

1 Return to Grange. 6 

4$ Portinscale . 10$ 

1 Keswick .11$ 

Lake Derwent approaches in form the oval; measur¬ 
ing in length about three miles, from north to south, 
by one mile in breadth. Lord’s Island, formerly the 
property of the Earls of Derwentwater, is the largest, 
containing an area of about six acres. The castle was 
destroyed consequent on the attainder of the last Earl, 
in 1,715, and the estates forfeited to the crown, by 
whom they were presented to Greenwich Hospital. 
The crumbled foundation walls of this once princely 
mansion are all that are now visible. Vicar’s Isle is 
the summer residence of Henry C. Marshall, Esq., of 
Leeds. St. Herbert’s Isle is famous as the retreat of 
the saint from whom it derives its name. He died in 
the year 687. The cell of the recluse is still pointed 
out. The other Islets are Rampsholme, two Ling- 
holms, Tripetholm, and Otter Isle. The royalty of the 
lake is held by Eeginald D. Marshall, Esq., General 
Wyndham, Rowland P. Standish, Esq., and the free¬ 
holders of Borrowdale. 

On the left, two miles from Keswick, Barrow House, 
the abode of S. Z. Langton, Esq., J.P., will be passed. 
One of the finest cascades in the district is situate be¬ 
hind this residence ; the fall is over two successive 
ledges of rock, in all 124 feet high. By applying at 
the lodge, visitors are permitted to pass through the 
grounds to the cascade 



74 


CASTLE CRAG-. 


In another mile, Lodore Hotel is reached. Behind 
the hotel is the celebrated waterfall of Lodore, formed 
by the stream descending from the valley of Watend- 
lath, and falling between two gigantic rocks — Growdar 
Crag on the left and Shepherd’s Crag on the right. 
From the top of the fall, a beautiful view of the lake 
and vale below will be enjoyed. The water falls, in a 
succession of leaps or hounds, a height of 120 feet. 

One mile above Grange, at the foot of the Borrow- 
dale valley, stands, on a high natural platform, Bowder 
Stone, a huge fragment of rock, evidently displaced from 
the precipices above, and poised here, on plain ground, 
upon one of its angles, similar to a ship resting upon its 
keel. A pleasant glimpse into the interior of Borrow- 
dale is obtained from the summit of this rock. Upon 
this account it is generally visited by those who do not 
intend to explore the valley itself. On the opposite 
side of the river to Bowder Stone, rises Castle Crag, a 
high rock, almost detached from the surrounding moun¬ 
tains, and said to have been used as a natural fortress, 
first by the Romans, then the Saxons, and afterwards 
the Furness Monks, to whom all Borrowdale was given, 
it is supposed, by one of the Derwentwater family. 
Relics found there at various periods, strengthen this 
supposition. 

Return to Grange, cross the bridge over the river 
Derwent, and pass through the village to the western 
shore of the lake. 

Derwentwater Bay, the residence of Major General 
Sir John Woodford, stands at the head of the hay, 
embowered in wood. 


BLACKLEAD MINES. 


75 


FROM KESWICK BY BORROWDALE, TO BUTTEEMERE. 

A mile from Bowder Stone, the village of Rosthwaite 
is reached. The view from here is hounded on all sides 
by lofty mountains of rugged aspect, among which 
may be more especially noted, in front, Glaramara, 
Scawfell Pikes, Scawfell and Great Gavel. Half-a-mile 
beyond the village, and near to the chapel, a track 
strikes off to the left, leading through Stonethwaite 
Village; thence through the wild and cheerless vale of 
Langstreth, over the mountain pass known as the 
Stake, into the vale of Langdale. The entrance into 
Cumberland or Westmorland, by this route, according 
as the traveller is proceeding north or south, is fre¬ 
quently preferred by pedestrians, and, when the weather 
is suitable, amply repays the bodily fatigue of the jour¬ 
ney, by the majestic solitude of the scenery it affords. 
Following the road to the right, we pass into the vale 
of Seathwaite, as far as Seatollar, a neat looking sub¬ 
stantial building, the residence of Abraham Fisher, 
Esq., J.P. Here another track strikes off to the left, 
leading to Wastwater by Sty Head, passing the cele¬ 
brated Blacklead Mines. The rock in which this ore 
is found is termed, by the most approved geologists, a 
grey porphyritic felspar, and, unlike other ore, is found 
lying embedded in, what is termed by the workmen, 
sops or bellies, rather than in continuous veins. The 
mine has now been closed for some time, on account of 
the unproductive yield of late years. In this vicinity 
stands a remarkable group of yew trees, — four of larger 
size, with several others of lesser growth. Of the 
former, one which, for its vigour and size, ranks among 


76 


TEW TREES OF BORROWDALE. 


the finest specimens in England, measures twenty-one 
feet in circumference, at a height of four feet from the 
ground. In the “Excursion,” Wordsworth thus com¬ 
memorates these remarkable trees. After noticing the 
large yew, the “pride of Lorton vale,” he proceeds : 

Worthier still of note 
Are those fraternal four of Borrowdale, 

Joined in one solemn and capacious grove ; 

Huge trunks! and each particular trunk a growth 
Of intertwisted fibres serpentine. 

Up-coiling and inveterately convolved, — 

Not uninform’d with phantasy, and looks 
That threaten the profane: — a pillar’d shade. 

Upon whose grassless floor of red-brown hue. 

By sheddings from the piring umbrage tinged 
Perennially — beneath whose sable roof 
Of boughs, as if for festal purpose, deck’d 
With unrejoicing berries, ghostly shapes 
May meet at noontide — Fear, and trembling Hope, 
Silence, and Foresight — Death the skeleton. 

And Time, the shadow, there to celebrate. 

As in a natural temple, scattered o’er 
With altars undisturb’d of mossy stone. 

United, worship; or, in mute repose. 

To lie and listen to the mountain flood 
Murmuring from Glaramara’s inmost caves. 

From Seatollar, the Buttermere road ascends over 
rough and steep ground, by the side of a stream or 
ghyll, to the summit of the hause or pass, a height of 
800 feet above the Lake Derwent, and 1,100 feet above 
the level of the sea. Some beautiful retrospective 
views of the receding valley of Borrowdale, and the 


SCALE FORCE. 


77 


mountains emerging upon the sight, will be enjoyed in 
the lingering ascent. Helvellyn is seen to the east, 
rearing his head over the Watendlath mountains. 

The descent into the head of the dale of Buttermere 
is rapid, passing between Honister Crag, on the left, 
and Yew Crag on the right, both of which yield, from 
several quarries, blue roofing slate of the finest quality, 
and the former of which rises from the dale to an eleva¬ 
tion of 1,700 feet. The road crosses and re-crosses 
twice the descending rivulet, until it reaches Gates- 
garth, a farm-building placed “ under the most extra¬ 
ordinary amphitheatre of mountainous rocks that ever 
eye beheld,” and thence bordering, for some distance, 
the shore of the lake. Hasness, a sheltered retreat, the 
residence of General Benson, is passed on the left, 
shortly after which the hamlet of Buttermere is reached. 
From the Inn at Buttermere a visit to Scale force is 
generally made. This is the highest waterfall in the 
English Lakes’ District, the water falling, in one clear 
* bound, from a height of 156 feet, in another, 44 feet. 

“ It springs, at once, with sudden leap, 

Down from the immeasurable steep. 

From rock to rock, with shivering force rebounding.” 

Buttermere Lake measures in length about 1^ miles, 
by half-a-mile in breadth. A stream connects it with 
Crummock Lake, which last measures about three miles 
in length, by three-quarters of a mile broad. Both 
lakes are famed for the quality of their trout and char. 

The return to Keswick from buttermere may be 
made either by way of Buttermere Hause, through the 


78 


STY HEAD. 


peaceful vale of Newlands, a distance of nine miles, or 
by way of Scale Hill, the head of Lorton Yale and 
Whinlatter. Both routes equally afford a pleasing 
variety of vale and mountain scenery. 

FROM KESWICK TO WASTWATER, BY STY HEAD. 


MILES. MILES. 



Keswick to Grange Bridge 

. 4 

2 

Rosthwaite . 

. 6 

H 

Seatoller Bridge . 

. 7k 

l 

Seathwaite . 

. 8* 

2f 

Styhead Tarn . 

. Hi 

I 

Styhead. 

. 12 

2 

Wastdale Head . 

. 14 

1 

Head of Wastwater . 

. 15 

H 

Netherbeck Bridge . 

. 16i 

3* 

Strand’s Public House 

. 20 

4 

Gosforth . 

. 24 

3 

Calder Bridge. 

. 27 


This excursion is usually made with a guide and 
ponies. The road, as far as Seatoller, has been already 
described. A conveyance is sometimes taken as far as 
Seathwaite; beyond this, however, the road becomes a 
mere mountain track, fit only for ponies accustomed to 
the work. 

Sty Head is a magnificent mountain pass, the highest 
part of which is 1,250 feet above the nearest dwelling- 
house. Two sheets of water crown its summit — 
Sty Head Tarn, close by which the road passes, and 
Sprinkling Tarn, some half-a-mile further to the east; 
beyond the former, the bold and lofty crag of Great 
End rises abruptly on the left, and still further south, 
the Pikes of Scawfell. Great Gable is seen on the right. 
Prom this place a steep winding path descends rapidly 
to Wasdale Head, a small upland valley, of some few 
hundred acres, at the head of Wastwater, and inhabited 
by a few families, chiefly engaged in sheep farming. 



















BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. 


79 


From the village of Wasdale the road approaches the 
Lake, along the margin of which it passes to the 
Strands, where are two small inns, affording refresh¬ 
ment to tourists. Wastwater is about three and a-half 
miles in length and half-a-mile broad ; it is remarkable 
for the depth and purity of its waters, which have never 
been known to freeze over. It is well stocked with 
trout, and also contains char. The mountains sur¬ 
rounding it are lofty and majestic. The Screes is a 
loose mass of shivering rock, extending along the whole 
length of the south-east shore and shelving into the 
water. The vicinity affords, from different points, 
some striking mountain scenes. From Strands to 
Gosforth is a distance of four miles, whence an addi¬ 
tional three miles brings the tourist to Calder Bridge, 
where there are two excellent inns. Here lodgings are 
usually taken for the night. A pleasant walk of three- 
quarters of a mile along the hanks of the river Calder 
will enable the reader to visit the venerable ruins of 
Calder Abbey. It formerly belonged to the Cistercian 
Monks, for whom it was founded A.D. 1,134, by the 
second Ranulph des Meschines. 

The return to Keswick will he best made by Enner- 
dale Bridge, Lamplugh Cross, Loweswater and Scale 
Hill, a distance of thirty miles. During this second 
day’s journey much pleasing variety of country will be 
passed through. 

THE CIRCUIT OP BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. 

This lake measures four miles in length, and, in some 
parts, about one mile in breadth. It lies three miles to 


80 


ASCENT OF SKIDDAW. 


the north of Lake Derwent, with which it is connected 
by the River Derwent. A pleasant drive of eighteen 
miles may be made round it. The approach is gene¬ 
rally preferred by the western shore. This is made by 
the Cockermouth road as far as Peel Wyke, passing 
through the pleasant village of Portinscale, the town¬ 
ships of Braithwaite and Thorn thwaite, thence through 
Wythop Woods. The northern end of the lake is 
rounded by crossing Ouse Bridge, and proceeding by 
Armathwaite Hall, the seat of Sir F. Vane, to Castle 
Inn. From this place the road takes a southerly direc¬ 
tion, passing through the rich and fertile vale of Bassen- 
thwaite, thence for some distance along the foot of 
Skiddaw to Keswick. 

ASCENT OF SKIDDAW. 

If the weather he at all propitious, no stranger should 
leave Keswick without making a mountain ascent. 
Skiddaw is generally preferred, on account of the short 
distance from the town, and the comparative ease with 
which the journey may he made, either on foot or in the 
saddle. At the Penrith tollbar, about half-a-mile to the 
east of Keswick, the road crosses the Greta. Opposite 
Greta Bank, turn to the left, thence wind round Latrigg, 
to the point where the ascent commences. The path 
runs parallel with a wall for a considerable distance up 
the steepest part of the mountain; afterwards, however, 
leaving the wall to the right, a direct line forward leads 
to an almost level tract of moor, from which further 
progress is of gradual ascent. Half-a-dozen different 
summits, each marked by a pile of stones, and each pre- 


THRELKELD. 


81 


senting varying and peculiar views, are passed before 
gaining the highest point. The view from this place 
must be seen to be appreciated, — no description could 
make it understood. Skiddaw, it should be stated, 
stands at an elevation of 3,022 feet above the sea level. 
The distance of its highest point is six miles from 
Keswick. 

FROM KESWICK, BY ULLSWATER, TO PATTERDALE. 

The approach to XJUswater may be made from Kes¬ 
wick by several different routes. The pedestrian might 
take the Ambleside road for about four and three- 
quarter miles, and then, turning to the left, pursue a 
foot-path passing over the north shoulder of Helvellyn, 
making the descent by way of Greenside Lead Mines ; 
or, at the third milestone on the Penrith road, a bridle- 
road leads, by way of Wanthwaite, to Hilltop and 
Threlkeld Pasture, to Dockray. 

Taking, however, the usual route, a distance of four 
and a-half miles on the Penrith road brings the traveller 
to the village of Threlkeld, a little beyond which, to 
the right, is situated Threlkeld Hall, once the residence 
of Sir Lancelot Threlkeld, knight of the reign of 
Henry VII., but now a somewhat antiquated farmhouse. 
This Sir Lancelot married the widow of Lord Clifford, 
who was slain in the civil wars in 1461. Their son, 
young Clifford, was preserved from the fury of the 
Yorkist faction, and brought hither out of the way of 
all search. Twenty-four years of his life were spent 
here, leading the life of a shepherd. On the union of 
the houses of York and Lancaster, his estates and 


82 


RETURN HOME. 


honours were restored to him. He attended parlia¬ 
ment, when summoned by his sovereign, and served in 
the war which ended in the victory of Flodden Field, 
in which he took part; hut his life was chiefly passed 
in the country, restoring his castles, which had gone to 
decay during the civil war, and following peaceful 
pursuits. 

" Ages after lie was laid in eartli. 

The ‘ good Lord Clifford * was the name he bore.” 

From Threlkeld the road passes along the foot of 
Blencathra, as far as the sixth milestone, thence across 
a moorish tract of country for two or three miles. 
Ten and a-half miles from Keswick, the road diverges 
to the right, leaving the turnpike road. A distance of 
five miles more brings us to Dockray village, a mile 
and a-half beyond which we reach Lyulph’s Tower, in 
G-owbarrow Park. A beautiful drive of four miles will 
then bring the traveller to the Inn at Patterdale. 

A few days will probably be spent in exploring the 
district, after which the traveller may either return to 
Windermere, or reach the railway at Penrith. 


ON THE FLOWERING PLANTS, FERNS, AND MOSSES 
OF WINDERMERE AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


The hanks of Windermere afford many objects of 
interest to the lover of British wild flowers; so numer¬ 
ous and various, indeed, are the more or less rare plants 
to he found in the lake itself, — in the mountain tarns, 
streams, woods and bogs, and on the fells and heath, 
that it is difficult to give a satisfactory account of them 
in the space of a short chapter. A general description 
of the Flora of the district may, however, be of some 
use to the tourist who, in passing through the country, 
wishes to secure anything which may he worthy of a 
place in his herbarium or garden. The writer proposes 
to enumerate the least common plants which have been 
found within about three miles of the lake, occasionally 
noticing objects of peculiar interest which are found at 
a greater distance. 

Of the order Banunculacsee, Thalictrum flavum is 
not uncommon about the margin of the lake; T. minus 
is also found. The beautiful globe-flower Trollius 
europoeus is abundant in various situations. HeHe- 
borus virdis occurs in two situations near the Winder- 
mere terminus, and H. fcetidus grows near the road 
between Bowness and Kendal: it is very probable that 
both these are introduced. Aquilegia vulgaris is fomid 
E 



84 


FERNS. 


in numerous places. — Of the order Nymphceaceoe, 
Nymphoea alba and nuphar lutea are frequent in the 
lake and many of the mountain tarns. Of Papaveraceae 
Meconopsis cambrica is not uncommon, and in some 
places, such as near the Ferry Inn-and other parts of 
Furness Fells, and in Troutbeck it is abundant. Cheli- 
donium majus is common. — Of Fumariacece Corydalis, 
claviculata is not uncommon in healthy places. — Of 
Cruciferoe, Lepidium Smithii is abundant; L. Draba 
grows near Newby Bridge. Arabis hirsuta is found 
on Whitbarrow ; Cochlearia officinalis on Kirkstone. — 
Helianthemum canum, of the order Cistaceae occurs in 
Witherslack.— Of Droseraceae, Drosera rotundifolia is 
abundant, and D. longifolia is rare.—Of Caryophyllaceae, 
Stellaria nemorum is found in some wet woods and ghylls. 
— Silene acaulis grows on Fairfield. — Of Malvaceae, 
Malva moschata and sylvestris are frequent in various 
places. — Of Hypericaceae, Hypericum androsoemum 
is not uncommon on wooded fellsides, generally near 
rivulets. H. quadrangulum and humifusum are com¬ 
mon, and H. hirsutum is plentiful on Whitbarrow.— 
Of G-eraniaieae, G-eranium sylvatium is not uncommon ; 
Gr. lucidum is frequent; G-. sanguineum and pratense 
are abundant on Whitbarrow. — Of Balsaminaceae, Im- 
patiens noli me tangere is plentiful on Furness Fells, 
near the Ferry Inn, at Millerground, Gill Plead, and 
many other places. — Of Bhamnaceae, Rhamnus cathar- 
ticus and frangula are found on the islands of Winder- 
mere. — Of Leguminifereae, G-enista tinctoria is very 
abundant and beautiful in heathy places. — Hippocrepis 
comosa is found at Grange. — Of Rosaceae, Prunus 


FERNS. 


85 


padus is common. Spiraea salicifolia grows near the 
Ferry Inn, but this is doubtless introduced,. as this 
plant is now found to be nowhere indigenous in Great 
Britain. Rubus suberectus is found in woods and some¬ 
times on open mountain sides. R. saxatilis occurs in a 
few places. R. idoeus rhamnifolius, leucostachys and 
rudis are the most common species of Rubus here. 

R. chamsemorus grows in Long Sleddale. We have 
seen Rosa spinosissima in one place only. R. villosa is 
very common. — Of Haloragiacese, Myriophyllum spica- 
tum and verticillatum abound in the lake. — Of Grossu- 
lariacese, Ribes rubrum and grossulara are plentiful in 
the woods. — Of Crassulacese, Sedum telephium and 
anglicum are very common; S. Rhodiola grows on 
Fairfield; and Cotyledon umbilicus is found in many 
places. — Of Saxifragaceae, Saxifraga aizoides stellaris, 
and hypnoides are found on the mountain tops. We 
have not seen S. oppositifolia nearer than Helvellyn. 

S. platypetala grows on the heights of Fairfield. Chry- 
soplenium alternifolium is also found by some rivulets. 
Parnassia palustris is very abundant. — Of Rubiacese, 
Galium boreale grows on the islands and Asperula 
cynanchica is found on Whitbarrow. — Of Umbelliferse, 
Sium angustifolium is common in the streams, and 
Mvrrhis odorata is by no means rare in old orchards 
and elsewhere. — Of Composite, Apargia hispida is com¬ 
mon and very handsome. Sonchus palustris occurs in 
some marshy places. Crepis paludosa is frequent in 
wet woods. Hieracium alpinum is found on Langdale 
Pikes ; H. lawsoni, on Kirkstone Pass; H. inuloides, 
in mountain rills ; H. sylvaticum and boreale are com- 

F 2 


86 


FERNS. 


mon; but we are not able to give a list of all the mountain 
species of Hawkweed which may be found in the district; 
the lower range of fells, near the lake, are not likely to 
produce any rare species, but the higher series, Fairfield, 
High Street, Hill Bell, &c., would be very likely to re¬ 
pay a more careful search than has hitherto been made. 
Serratula tinctoria is plentiful on the shores of the lake. 
Carduus heterophyllus grows in Troutbeck, Carlina 
vulgaris on Whitbarrow. Centaurea nigrescens is not 
unfrequent on dry banks. Bidens cernna is found in 
Crosthwaite. Eupatorium cannabinum is everywhere 
common. Gnaphalium dioicum and sylvaticum are 
abundant, the former on mountain heaths, the latter in 
woods. Petastites vulgaris is found in several places. 
Seneeio saracenicus grows near Newby Bridge, and in 
some old orchards; but it is probably not indigenous. 
Inula conyza is abundant on the Whitbarrow Fells. — 
Of Campanulacese, Campanula latifolia is not unfrequent 
in woody places. Jasione montana everywhere abun¬ 
dant, and the larger form, which has been thought by 
some to be a distinct species, is often seen in the meadows, 
Lobelia dortmanna grows in shallow water, in almost 
every part of the lake. — Of Ericaceae, Vacinium myr- 
tillus is found in nearly every wood; and Y. oxycoccus 
in a few places. Y. vitis-idaea on Langdale Pikes; 
Pyrola minor in Stockghyll. — Of Jasminaceae, Ligus- 
trum vulgare grows wild in the mountain woods. Of 
Gentianaccae Menyanthes trifoliata is not uncommon in 
the bogs. Polemonium caeruleum is found in Gray- 
tliwaite woods. — Of Scropliularianae, Digitalis purpurea 
is everywhere most abundant and beautiful, ornament- 


FERNS. 


87 


ing every hill and dell with its splendid spikes of purple 
flowers. Verbena officinalis may he gathered on Whit- 
barrow. — Of Orobanchaceae, Lathrsea squamaria grows 
on Wansfell. — Of Lamiaceae, Lyeopus europceus is 
found in a few places, as is also calamintha Clinopodium. 
Mentha piperita grows on Whitbarrow. M. sativa is 
not uncommon throughout the district. Scutellaria 
minor occurs in some of the bogs. — Of Boraginaceae, 
Symphytum officinale is not uncommon. — Of Pingui- 
culaceae, Pinguicula vulgaris is very frequent in damp 
places. Utricularia vulgaris is also found. Of Primu- 
laceoe, Primula farinacea may be found in many moist 
meadows : it is abundant on Wansfell, and will be seen 
when ascending the mountain by Stockghyll. Lysi- 
machia vulgaris, nummularia and nemorum are common, 
the two former by the side of the lake. — Of Plantagi- 
naceae, Plantago media is common near Kendal and on 
Whitbarrow. Littorella lacustris covers the margins 
and bottom of the lake, with a perennial verdure. — Of 
Polygonaceae, Polygonum bistorta is common and very 
ornamental in low meadows ; Oxyria reniformis is found 
in Longsleddale, and elsewhere. — Of Thymelaceae, 
Daphne laureola and mezereum have been found in 
Rayrigg and Graythwaite woods. — Of Empetraceae, 
Empetrum nigrum grows on the higher fells. — Of 
Amentiferae, Carpinus betulus is not uncommon, but 
probably not indigenous. Salix pentandra occurs in 
many places. S. fragilis alba, viminalis, caprea and 
aurita are common; but we are not sufficiently 
acquainted with this genus to mention all the species 
found here. — Of Orchidaceae, Listera ovata is common, 
f 3 


88 


FERNS. 


andL. cordata is found on Helvellyn.— L. Nidusavis 
is rare. Gymnadenia conopsea and Habenara bifolia 
are very common. Cypripedium calceolus has been 
found on Whitbarrow ; and Epipactis latifolia, palustris 
and ensifolia also grow there. — Of Amaryllidaceae, 
Narcissus pseudo-narcissus is most abundant, and in 
early spring makes many a bank and woody glen yellow 
with its numerous flowers. — Of Liliaceoe, Allium eari- 
natum is found in one locality. H. ursinum is very 
common. H. schoenoprasum may be found on Cartmel 
Fell. Convallaria majalis grows on some of the islands, 
but is becoming scarce from too frequent depredations; 
in Rauncey woods, about three miles below Newby 
Bridge, this plant is most abundant and fine, covering 
some acres of ground ; here also may be found the Fly 
orchis. C. multiflora abounds in G-raytliwaite woods, 
about two miles north of Newby Bridge. — Of Trillia- 
ceoe, Paris quadrifolia is found in many of the shady 
woods. — Of Alismaceoe, Alisma plantago and ranuncu- 
loides are plentiful in the lake. — Of Fluviales, Potamo- 
geton proelongus is found in many parts of Windermere. 
P. perfoliatus and heterophyllus are very common.— 
Of Juncaceoe, Juncus glancus grows on Whitbarrow, 
and J. triglumis on Fairfield. — Of Cyperaceoe, Eriopho- 
rum vaginatum is frequent in mountain bogs. Carex 
dioica, ovalis, riparia, pulicaris, curta, remota, stricta, 
proecox, vesicaria, and ampullacea are common. C. 
loevigata and sylvatica are found in some places. — Of 
Gramina, Avena pubescens, flavescens, are common; 
Festuca ovina var, vivipara is found; Bromus giganteus 
is very frequent. B. asper and Sesleria cserulea grow 


EEBNS. 


89 


on Whitbarrow. Triticum caninum may be seen in 
many places: and Melica nutans is fomid in some moist 
woods. 

Of the Ferns, Ceterach officinarum, occurs on some 
walls, but is abundant and indigenous on Whitbarrow. 
Polypodium vulgare, grows very luxuriantly, and in 
some shaded situations with a south aspect, assumes a 
form resembling P. cambricum, but does not retain its 
peculiar character under cultivation; the variety serra- 
tum, also grows in similar situations: it is very hand¬ 
some. — Polypodium phegopteris is more than usually 
common in this district, and may be found in many 
woods and often by the road sides. — P. dryopteris is 
not quite.so frequent, but by no means uncommon in 
similar situations; it is very abundant in the woods of 
Furness Fells. — Polypodium calcareum is common on 
Whitbarrow. — Allosorus crispus is not rare in stone 
walls or rocks, and among loose stones, generally in high 
situations. — Cystopteris fragilis is very fine in some 
situations, but is not abundant here; a form is found 
which somewhat resembles C. regia. — Polystichuin 
lonchitis has been found. — P. aculeatum is common by 
rivulets through mountain woods and coppices, and its 
varieties lobatum and lonchitoides. — P. angulare is 
less common, but may be found in many warm shady 
ghylls and groves growing very luxuriantly. — Lastrea 
oreopteris is very common. The different forms of 
L. dilatata abound ; the variety called by Mr. Newman 
L. collina, is not rare. — L. Spinu losa is to be found in 
many wet woods ; also in some open bogs, and a few 
roots of a form of this species closely resembling, if not 


90 


EEBNS. 


identical with L. cristata, have been found. — L. recurva 
occurs in a few places. — Athyrium felix-femina var 
rhceticum is not uncommon. — Asplenium viride is 
found on some of the mountain screes, and is very 
abundant on Whitbarrow. A. Trichomanes, Adiantum- 
nigrum and ruta-muria are common, and A. marinum is 
found on Meathop, near Witherslack. — Scolopendrium 
vulgare grows very fine in some sheltered situations. — 
Blechnum boreale is common everywhere. — Hymeno- 
phyllum Wilsoni is found in many dark fissures in the 
rocks in high wooded fells, generally near a stream. — 
Osmunda regaiis is common and fine. — Botrychium 
lunaria is pretty frequent on high mountain heaths. — 
Ophioglosum vulgatum is very scarce. In giving an 
account of the ferns of Windermere, the important dis¬ 
covery of Woodsia Ilvensis in Westmorland, although 
not in the immediate neighbourhood of Windermere, 
ought to be mentioned. This rare fern was found by 
Mr. Huddart, the nurseryman of Waterloo Gardens 
immediately opposite Bowness, who has some roots of 
it, and of almost all the British ferns, in his possession. 

All the British club mosses are found near Winder- 
mere. Lycopodium clavatum grows on most of the 
higher fells. — L. annotinum has been found in Lang- 
dale. — L. inundatum is not unfrequent on the margins 
of mountain tarns. L. alpinum grows on many heathy 
fell-sides ; L. selago in similar situations; and L. selagi- 
noides is common in rivulets in high situations.— 
Isoetes lacustris is abundant in all parts of the lake, 
but rather difficult to find, because it is nearly always 
in deep water. — Equisetum palustre var, polystachyon, 


MOSSES. 


91 


is the only uncommon Horsetail which has hitherto 
been found here. 

The common Mosses are abundant here, but some 
species may be found which are very scarce in Great 
Britain, and are only seen in some alpine or sub-alpine 
districts. The Museologist will be delighted with the 
general appearance of this tribe of plants, their luxuri¬ 
ance in some situations is truly wonderful. Among the 
most rare may be mentioned Zygodon mangestii, in 
crevices of rocks, without fruit, on Kirkstone. — 
Gymnostomum rupestre on wet rocks, Helvellyn.— 
G. Griffithanum on Bed Screes, Wry nose and Fairfield. 
Dyphisicum foliosum on rocks and crevices of rocks, 
By dal Park. — Weissia denticulata on rocks, Grasmere 
Fells. — Grimmia spiralis and torta below Bed Screes, 
Kirkstone, but not in fruit. — Orthotrichum rupincola 
on walls by Mardale and Hawes water. 0. aristatum 
on trees in Bydal Park and elsewhere. — Bryum jula- 
ceum in mountain rills, fruiting abundantly in Kirk¬ 
stone Pass and in Wythburn beck. — B. albicans in 
mountain rills, — B. Ludwigii on wet rocks, Glaramara, 
not in fruit. — B. zierii in crevices of rocks and on the 
ground. Bed Screes, Bydal Park and elsewhere.— 
B. Alpinum common, on the mountains, usually barren. 

— B. uliginosum in a branch of the Wythburn beck, 
High Baise. — B. accuminatum on the eastern preci¬ 
pices of Fairfield, between the summit and Bydal Head. 

— B. mnioides on Helvellyn. — Hypnum flagellare in 
rocky streams, Stockghyll, <fcc. — H. crista castrensis 
on banks above Troutbeck Park, by the road over 
Kirkstone, Dove Craig, Fairfield, Mardale, and Hawes- 


92 


MOSSES. 


water. Of those mosses which are rare, except in 
mountainous districts, may he mentioned, as occurring 
abundantly here, Anictangium ciliatum, common on 
walls and rocks; Anomodon curtipendulum very com¬ 
mon, in some situations bearing fruit abundantly; 
Bartramia pomiformis and halleriana are common; 
B. arcuata is found here, but is rare in fruit. Hypnum 
brevirostre is very abundant in woods; H. undulatum 
is very fine, and bears fruit in some high woods, gene¬ 
rally near waterfalls: Nechera crispa is a great orna¬ 
ment to rather wet rocks; Polytrichum alpinum and 
urnigerum are common, as are also Trichostomum 
acciculare, canescens, fasciculare, lanuginosum and poly- 
phyllum. 




MOUNTAINS AND PASSES 


93 


A TABLE OF THE HEIGHTS OF MOUNTAINS IN THE COUNTIES 
OF CUMBERLAND, WESTMORLAND, AND LANCASHIRE. 


No. 

Names of Mountains. 

Counties. 

Height hi 

Feet above 
the 

Sea Level. 

1 

Scawfell Pikes 

Cumberland 

3166 

2 

Scawfell ... 


3160 

3 

Helvellyn 

99 

3070 

4 

Skiddaw... 


3022 

5 

Fairfield 

Westmorland 

2950 

6 

Great Gable, Wastdale 

Cumberland 

2925 

7 

Bowfell 

Westmorland 

2914 

8 

Rydal Head 

99 

2910 

9 

Pillar 

Cumberland 

2893 

10 

Blencathra, Saddleback ... 


2787 

11 

Grassmoor ... 

99 

2756 

12 

Red Pike, Buttermere 

99 

2750 

13 

High Street, Iventmere 

Westmorland 

2700 

14 

Grisedale Pike 

Cumberland 

2680 

15 

Coniston Old Man 

Lancashire 

2576 

16 

Hill Bell. 

Westmorland 

2500 

17 

Langdale Pikes 


2400 

18 

Carrock Fell, Caldbeck 

Cumberland 

2110 

19 

High Pike, Caldbeck ... 

)) 

2101 

20 

Causey Pike 

99 

2040 

21 

Black Combe... 

99 

1919 

22 

Lord’s Seat 

99 

1728 

23 

Honister Crag 

99 

1700 

24 

Whinfell Beacon, near Kendal 

Westmorland 

1500 

25 

Cat Bell, Newlands ... 

Cumberland 

1448 

26 

Latrigg, Keswick... 

99 

1160 


Height 

in 

Feet. 


Highest English Mountain, Scawfell Pike, Cumberland 
Highest Welsh Mountain, Snowden, Carnarvonshire ... 
Highest Irish Mountain, Gurrane Tual, Kerry 
Highest Scotch Mountain, Ben Muedui, Aberdeen 
Highest European Mountain, Mount Blanc ... ... 

Highest Mountain in the World, Dhawalagiri, Asia 


3,166 

3,571 

3,404 

4,418 

15,718 

26,862 


PASSES. 


Sty Head 

Buttermere Hawes, Newlands 
Kirkstone 

Borrowdale Hawes, to Buttermere 
Dunmail Raise ... 


Heights above 
the Level of 
the Sea. 

Cumberland ... 1250 

„ ... 1160 
Westmorland ... 1200 

Cumberland ... 1100 

West. & Cumb. ... 720 























94 


LAKES AND WATERFALLS 


A TABLE OF THE LENGTH, BREADTH, AND DEPTH OF THE 

LAKES. 


No. 

Names of Lakes. 

Counties. 

Length 

in 

Miles. 

Extreme 

breadth 

in 

Miles. 

Extreme 
depth 
in Feet. 

Height 

above 

theSea 

1 

Windermere. 

Westmorland 

10 

1 

240 

116 

2 

Haweswater 


3 

* 

— 

443 

3 

Grasmere . 


n 

i 

180 

180 

4 

Brothers’ Water... 


Of 

* 

72 

— 

5 

Rydal Water. 

99 

o* 

1 

3 

54 

156 

6 

Red Tarn, Helvellyn 

99 



— 

2400 

7 

Coniston Water ... 

Lancashire 

6 

* 

160 

105 

8 

Esthwaite Water 


2 

1 

80 

189 

9 

Ullswater. 

Cumberland 

9 

1 

210 

380 

10 

Bassenthvvaite Water 


4 

1 

68 

210 

11 

Derwent water 


3 

0 

72 

228 

12 

Crummock 


3 

H 

132 

240 

13 

Buttermere. 


n 

f 

90 

247 

14 

Lowes water 


i 

* 

60 

— 

15 

Ennerdale . 


2* 

* 

80 

— 

16 

Wastwater 


3 

* 

270 

160 

17 

Thirlmere. 

>9 

2| 

* 

108 

473 


WATERFALLS. 


No. 

Names and Situations of Falls. 

Counties. 

Feet 

in 

Height. 

1 

Colwith Force, five miles from Ambleside 

Westmorland 

90 

2 

Dungeon Ghyll Force, Langdale . 

99 

30 

3 

Stockghyll Force, near Ambleside 

99 

70 

4 

Rydal Fall, near Ambleside. 


70 

5 

Seale Force, S.W. Side of Crummock Lake 

Cumberland 

196 

6 

Lodore Cascade, near Keswick. 


150 

7 

Barrow Cascade, near Keswick . 


122 

8 

Ara Force, West Side of Ullswater 


80 

9 

Birker Force, Eskdale. 


65 

10 

Stanley Gill, Eskdale . 


62 

11 

Sour Milk Force, . 

99 

60 




















DIRECTORY 


The address is that required by Postal arrangement; and, Windermere being 
the head office in the district, should be inserted at the end of each address, 
to ensure the regular transit of communications from a distance. 


WINDERMERE. 


Addison, Rev. J. 4., St. Mary’s 
Cottage. 

Atkinson, James, lodging-house, 
Villa Lodge. 

Aufrere, Geo., At. Esq., Burnside 

Ball, James, railway clerk. 

Balmer, Grace, laundress. Old 
Field. 

Barrow, R., Elim Grove. 

Barrow, R., yeoman, The Grove. 

Barrow, John, lodging-house, 
Woodside Cottage. 

Barrymore, D. A., teacher. 

Beaufoy, Mark, Esq., Bowness 
Road. 

Bell, John, joiner, Elim Grove. 

Benson, Mrs., lodging-house, 
Bowness Road. 

Benson, W., Esq., Dove Nest. 

Birkett, Mrs., lodging house, 
Elim Grove. 

Bradford, Earl of, St. Catherine’s 

Braithwaite, R., Esq., Bingle. 

Brockbank, John, lodging-house, 
Bowness Road. 

Brooks, Thomas, tailor and dra¬ 
per, High-street. 

Brownrigg, John, joiner, Bow¬ 
ness Road. 


Bryans, James, Esq., J.P., Bel- 
field. 

Burnett, Rev Dr., Bowness Road 

Carter, Geo., artist, Elim Grove. 

Clowes, Frederic, Esq., surgeon. 
Holly Hill. 

Collinson, Mrs., lodging-house, 
Bowness Road. 

Craston, Miles, grocer, Bowness 
Road. 

Crewdson, Geo. B., Esq., Villa 
Lodge. 

Crostliwaite, Samuel, artist, 
Chapel House, Bowness Road. 

Crostliwaite Thomas, yeoman, 
Birthwaite. 

Davies, Mrs., grocer, Church- 
street. 

Dixon, Miss, dressmaker, Bow¬ 
ness Road. 

Eastted, William, Esq., Elleray. 

Elleray, John, yeoman, Heath- 
waite. 

Fell, Geo., yeoman, Common. 

Field, John, Esq., Cross-street. 

Fleming, John, farmer, Eccle- 
ri gg- 

Fletcher, John, Esq., Craig Foot. 

Gandy, John, Esq., Oaklands. 





96 


DIRECTORY. 


Garnett, John, railway superin¬ 
tendent,—Printer, bookseller, 
&c., Post-Office. 

Gardner, Geo. H., Esq., solicitor, 
Ellerthwaite. 

Greaves, Mrs., Ferney Green. 

Greaves, Rev. Robert P., Dove 
Nest. 

Greg, Wm. R., Esq., The Craig. 

Gregg, B., cordwainer, Elim 
Grove. 

Harrison, Wm., joiner, Higb-st. 

Harrison, Mrs., Fancy Reposi¬ 
tory, High-street. 

Hayton, John, joiner and grocer, 
Bowness Road. 

Hayton, Richard, lodging-house 
keeper & joiner, Bowness Road 

Herd, Thomas, grocer, Bowness 
Road. 

Holmes, John, grocer, High-st. 

Hornby, Rev. Jas. J., Wansfell. 

Holmes, Wm., surgeon, Cleator 
Lodge. 

Holt, George, Esq., Orrest Head. 

Hutchinson, Isaac, farmer. Com¬ 
mon. 

Hutchinson, Wm., No. 2, Rail¬ 
way Terrace. 

Jones, Robert, Esq., Elim Grove. 

Kennedy, Peter, Esq., Fair View 

Logan, Robert,Low Wood Hotel. 

Longmire, J., farmer, Banrigg. 

Longmire, R., butcher. Lick- 
barrow. 

Lowe, Myles, grocer, Old-road. 

Macdougall, Mrs., North View. 

Marriott, Miss St. Mary’s Abbey. 

Marriott, Mrs., Oakthorpe. 

Martin, Nicholas, railway porter 

Medcalf, Richard, builder. 

Melvillve, Thomas, agent, Storrs. 

Meyer, Miss, Holbeck Cottage. 

Mitchell, Robert, blacksmith. 
Cross-street. 


Mounsey, George, slater, Elim 
Grove. 

Mounsey, W., joiner, Cross-st. 

Newby, Jas., gardener, Elleray. 

Parrington, J., farmer, Dromer. 

Pattinson, Miss Betty, Wood¬ 
land Grove. 

Pattinson, Abraham, builder, 
Elim Grove. 

Pattinson, John, lodging-house, 
Elim Grove. 

Pearson, Mrs., Briery Close. 

Postlethwaite, Robert, joiner, 
Bowness Road. 

Richardson, Stephen, Village Inn 

Rigg, Richard, Windermere 
Hotel. 

Salkeld, James, cordwainer. 
High-street. 

Scholes, Mrs., Annesdale. 

Sheldon, Wm., coach proprietor, 
Highfield. 

Somervell, Robert M., Esq., 

Hazelslack. 

Staniforth, Rev. Thomas, Storrs 
Hall. 

Sternberg, Baroness de, Belsfield 

Swinburne, Edward, Esq., Cal- 
garth Park. 

Tallon, Miss, confectioner, Bow¬ 
ness Road. 

Taylor, John H., Esq., solicitor. 

Taylor, Samuel, Esq., (J.P.) 
Ibbotsholme. 

Thompson, J., joiner, Cross-st. 

Tyson, Miss, lodging house. 
Rock Side. 

Ullock, Thomas, Esq., Quarry 
How. 

Warwick, Thomas, blacksmith, 
Bowness Road. 

Watson, Miss, Mylnbeck. 

Watson, R. Luther, Esq., Eccle- 
rigg. 

Wilson, J., farmer. Cook’s House 



DIRECTORY. 


97 


Wilson, Capt., R.N., (J.P.) The 
Howe. 

Wilkinson, Rev. H. J., Rectory. 


Wright, Henry, lodging-house, 
Bowness Road. 

Yates, Miss Jane, The Wood. 


BOWNESS. 


Airey, John, fanner, Cleabarrow 
Allen, Oswald, grocer and draper 
Armstrong, David, museum. 
Atkinson, John, grocer & draper. 
Atkinson, James, saddler. 
Atkinson, J., waller, Millbeck 
Stock. 

Backhouse, J., beerhouse keeper. 
Balmer, Michael, lodging-house. 
Barker, H., tailor and draper. 
Barrow, James, joiner. 

Barrow, Roger, Langdale View. 
Barrow, R. yeoman. 

Battersby, Thomas, gardener. 
Battersby, Thomas, joiner. 
Beetham, Ann, dressmaker. 
Belcher, Lucy, bazaar. 

Benson, Robert 

Birkett, J., Esq., Birkett Houses 
Birkett, W., gardener. 

Blaylock, William, grocer. 
Bownass, William, Royal Hotel. 
Brockbank, William, carter. 
Burton, Thomas, tailor. 

Butcher, Mrs. 

Braithwaite, John, boatman. 
Barton, Miss. 

Brockbank, John, painter. 
Cloudsdale, Thomas Crown 
Hotel. 

Collinson, John, Esq., Brantfell. 
Crosthwaite, Joseph, joiner. 
Crosthwaite, John, grocer. 
Curwen, Henry, Esq., Belle Isle. 
Cloudsdale, William, fisherman. 
Cartmell, William, joiner. 
Campbell, William, shoemaker. 
Dickinson, R., farmer, Winster. 
Dickinson, R., Belfield Farm. 


Dickinson, J., lodging-house. 
Dixon, Thomas, yeoman, Bel- 
man Ground. 

Dobson, William, blacksmith, 
lodging-house keeper. 

Dobson, J., blacksmith. 

Dixon, Ami, upholsterer. 

Eccles, Thomas, post-messenger. 
Eccles, R., joiner. 

Eglin, George T., Winster. 
Elleray, Stephen, Winster. 
Elleray, T., Winster. 

Fisher, James, lodging-house. 
Fletcher, Joseph, cabinet-maker. 
Garnett, Edward, land agent. 
Gawith, John, carrier. 

Gibson, G. Henry, Esq. 

Gill, Dawson, ostler. 

Gregg, George, carrier. 

Gregg, Reginald, grocer. 
Hadwin, J., cordwainer. 
Harrison, J., beerhouse keeper. 
Harrison, W., Brantfell. 
Hartley, Thomas. 

Heaps, Thomas, lodging-house. 
Herdson, J., High House. 

Hiley, Mrs. M. 

Hoggarth, Mary. 

Holmes, Miss, milliner. 

Howlett, Rev. Fred., Winster. 
Huddleston, J., tailor & draper. 
Holloway, Win. II., Esq., Water¬ 
side Cottage. 

Holt, Frederic, gardener. 

Jacob, Lieut. Col., Rayrigg. 
Kendall, George, painter. 
Kirkbride, Charles. 

Kirkbride, William, fisherman. 
Lockett, Allen, lodging-house. 




98 


DIRECTORY. 


Ladyman, George, schoolmaster. 
Livesey, Joseph, Esq., Green 
Bank. 

Longmire, Thomas, beerhouse. 
Long, Miss, milliner. 

Martin, John, beerhouse keeper. 
Martin, Mrs., innkeeper. 
Martindale, W., fanner, Bai’ker 
Knot. 

Mattix, Mrs., Berlin Wool Re¬ 
pository. 

Millray, M. H., gardener, Bels- 
field. 

Moon, James, yeoman. 

Moon, Tobias, basket-maker, 
Belman Houses. 

Newby, Christopher, coal-agent. 
Peel, Rev. F., Old England. 
Parker, Miss, milliner. 

Postleth waite, Woodbum, Esq., 
solicitor, Matson House. 
Redman, John, lodging-house. 
Reid, Robert, saddler. 
Richardson, T., farmer. Helm. 
Rigg, Ellen. 

Robinson, Agnes. 

Robinson, Agnes, Fell Side. 
Robinson, Aim, glass dealer. 
Robinson, Robert, cordwainer. 
Robinson, R. James, lodg. house 
Robinson, Miss, lodging-house, 
Howe Villa. 

Robinson, Thomas, tailor. 
Robinson, William, waller. 
Robinson, G., lodging-house. 
Robinson, John, Lindeth. 
Rubottom, Margaret, grocer. 
Robinson, John, boatman. 
Robinson, William, senr., joiner 
and bath-house keeper. 

NEWBY 

Ainsworth, T., Esq., cotton 
manufacturer, Backbarrow. 
Astley, F. I). P., Esq., Fell Foot. 


Robinson, William, jum\, joiner 
and bath-house keeper. 

Sabin, George, lodging-house. 
Sandham, John, beerhousekeeper 
Scott, James, Victoria Hotel. 
Searle, H., lodging-house.- 
Sewell, Mrs., Fallbarrow. 

Shaw, T., gardener. 

Shrigly, Miss, Langdale View. 
Sill, John, flour & butter dealer. 
Sowerby, Luke, basket-maker. 
Stables, W., farmer. 

Stewardson, R., beerhousekeeper 
Stewardson, John, gardener. 
Stringer, John, lodging-house. 
Stringer, Henry, druggist. 

Suart, William, junr. auctioneer. 
Swainson, William, schoolmaster, 
Winster. 

Taylor, B., shoemaker, Winster. 
Taylor, J., farmer. Low House. 
Taylor, T., boat-builder. Low 
House. 

Turner, R., basket-maker. Mill- 
beck Stock. 

Thompson, — Esq., Bay Villa. 
Walker, A., beerhouse keeper. 
Walker, Thomas, lodging-house. 
Ward, Frederic, Esq., GUI Head. 
Waters, George, ironmonger. 
Wharton, J., hairdresser. 
Wildman and Holmes, joiners 
and builders. 

Wilkinson, WUliam, blacksmith. 
WUson, Robert, farmer. Miller- 
ground. 

Wright, W. James, Windy Hall. 
Wood, Jos., Temperance Hotel. 
Wood, Robert, beerhouse keeper. 
Woof, Joseph, gardener. 

BRIDGE. 

Backhouse, Simpson, farmer, 
Finstliwaite. 

Bums, J., farmer, Backbarrow. 




DIRECTORY. 


99 


Bateman, Thomas, Beck Hire, 
beerhouse keeper and farmer. 

Bingland, Rev. J., Esq., Fins- 
thwaite. 

Braithwaite, Thomas, beerhouse 
keeper, Finsthwaite. 

Carter, John, grocer, Staveley. 

Carter, William, hoop-maker and 
farmer, Finsthwaite. 

Crow, Mark, farmer, Graith- 
waite. 

Cormic, William, Esq., Cunsey. 

Dixon, W., farmer, Cunsey. 

Fell, John, Esq., Stott Park. 

Fell, John, farmer, Finsthwaite. 

Fleming, Daniel, Newby Bridge 
Mill. 

Fell, John, blacksmith. 

Fell, Christopher, bobbin manu¬ 
facturer, Cunsey. 

Harrison, John, farmer and bas¬ 
ket maker. 

Ainslie Harrison and Co., Iron 
Works, Backbarrow. 

Harrison, Mrs., Landing. 

Kellett, Wm., carter, Landing. 

Kirkby, James, grocer & butcher 
Backbarrow. 

Kirkbride, Robert, farmer, Fins¬ 
thwaite. 


Arnold, James, Ferry Hotel. 
Aspland, T. Lindsey, Esq., artist, 
Sawrey Cottage. 

Atkinson, E., hoop maker, Satter 
How. 

Atkinson, John, Spout House. 
Brooks, J. N., schoolmaster. 
Carradus, Barrow, farmer, Spout 
Mire. 

Carradus, M., farmer, Harrow 
Slack. 

Clark, Thomas, farmer, Satter 
How. 


Lewthwaite, G., Esq., Stott Park 

Martin, Joseph, farmer and land 
agent, Blakeholmes. 

Pedder, John, Esq., Finsthwaite 
House. 

Preston, William, farmer, Town 
End. 

Revley, M., farmer, Graithwaite. 

Rowlandson, Joshua, quarryman. 
Town Ward. 

Rowlandson, James, yeoman, 
Backbarrow. 

Sandys, J. D., Esq., Graithwaite 

Steele, Christopher, shoemaker, 
Backbarrow. 

Swainson, John, yeoman, Helm 
Well, Cunsey. 

Swainson, Jos., farmer and hoop 
maker, Cunsey. 

Turner, J., farmer, Finsthwaite. 

Townley, W., Esq., Town Head. 

Robinson, William, farmer, Stott 
Park. 

Welsh, Richard, coal dealer, 
Backbarrow. 

Wharton, W., bobbin manufac¬ 
turer, Stott Park. 

White, Thomas, Swan Hotel. 

Wren, John, joiner and builder. 


Cowbum, Mrs., Chapel Cottage. 
Dixon, J., grocer, Post Office. 
Forrest, George, farmer. Briers. 
Forrest, John, yeoman. Low 
House. 

Forrest, Mrs. Henry, widow. 
Garnett, Joseph, Esq., Howend 
Cottage. 

Halstead, W., Esq., Mount Cot¬ 
tage. 

Hartley, Richard, New Inn. 
Hawkrigg, T., blacksmith. 
Hawkrigg, Braithwaite, yeoman. 




100 


DIEECTOEY. 


Hawkrigg, Hugh, yeoman, Castle 
Herdson, William, butcher. 
Huddart, J., seedsman, Waterloo 
Gardens. 

Jackson, G., farmer, Eelhouse. 
Ogden, Jonathan, R. Esq., (J.P.) 
Lakeefield. 

Preston, William, farmer. Hill 
Top. 

Smith, William, hoop maker. 
Smith, Elizabeth, grocer. 
Stalker, John, grocer. 


Stalker, Jonathan, beerhouse 
keeper. 

Stalker, Jonathan, basket-maker 
Stalker, W., boatman. 

Taylor, Joseph, yeoman. Buckle 
Yeat. 

Taylor, Thomas, shoemaker. 
Taylor, John, joiner. 

Towers, W., yeoman, Towerbank. 
Towers, Mrs., Sawrey House. 
Willan, Tlios., spirit merchant. 
Willison, Ann, schoolmistress. 


TROUTBECK. 


Beaumont, Thos., farmer. Crag. 

Benson, Anthony, yeoman. Coat 
Syke. 

Benson, William, farmer. Low 
Longmire. 

Benson, Thomas, yeoman. High 
Green. 

Benson, John, yeoman, Crosses. 

Bigland, Jolm, farmer, near 
Borrans. 

Birkett, William, yeoman. Town 
Head. 

Birkett, George, Brow Head. 

Birkett, Thomas, yeoman, Great 
House. 

Birkett, Robert, yeoman, Mid- 
dleriggs. 

Braithwaite, James, yeoman. 
Town Foot. 

Braithwaite, Elizabeth, school¬ 
mistress, Mathew How. 

Braithwaite, John, mechanic, 
Troutbeck Bridge. 

Brownrigg, George, joiner. Beck - 
side Cottage. 

Browne, Harrison, yeoman, 
Drummermer Head. 

Browne, Mrs. Lucy, Town End. 

Browne, Richard, farmer, Low 
Wood. 


Brown, Ben., yeoman, Boot. 

Coffee, Jeremiah, tailor. Crag. 

Dawson, Mrs., Crag House. 

Fell, Robert H., bobbin-maker, 
Troutbeck Bridge. 

Forrest, Birkett, yeoman. Low 
Fold. 

Forrest, Matthew, farmer, Low 
Skelgill. 

Gandy, Henry, Esq., Troutbeck 
Park. 

Green, Elizabeth, innkeeper. 
Mortal Man. 

Harrison, Thomas, schoolmaster. 
Crag. 

Hay ton, George, joiner. Town 
Head. 

Holme, Edward, blacksmith, 
Troutbeck Bridge. 

Hunter, Thomas, farmer. Town 
Head. 

Hutchinson, John, Esq., Broad 
Oaks. 

Jenkinson, Thomas, yeoman. 
Near Orrest. 

Kennedy, Simon, letter carrier. 

Lancaster, J., innkeeper, Kirk- 
stone Top. 

Lancaster, Henry, bootmaker, 
Longmire Gate. 




DIRECTORY. 


101 


Lancaster, Thomas, bootmaker. 
Lane. 

Leather, Thomas, tailor & draper 
Mathew How. 

Longmire, Jas., farmer, Orrest. 

Longmire, W., churchwarden. 
Crosses. 

Longmire, John, yeoman, Long¬ 
mire. 

Longmire, J., farmer, Longmire. 

Mackereth, Benson, innkeeper. 
Queen’s Head. 

Mackereth, W., yeoman. High 
Fold. 

Mounsey, William, relieving- 
officer, and registrar of births 
and deaths, Highfold. 

Pool, Jos., yeoman, Slack Foot. 

Pool, Abram, yeoman, Beckside. 

Bigg, George, blacksmith, Long¬ 
mire Gate. 

Sewell, Bev. William, Low Fold. 


Stainton, Thomas, farmer. Town 
Head. 

Storey, Thomas, yeoman. High 
Green. 

Storey, Alison, farmer. Lane 
Foot. 

Storey, Geo., waller. Lane Foot. 

Storey, Christopher, farmer,High 
Fold. 

Storey, John, farmer, Longgreen 
Head. 

Todd, James, farmer. Crag. 

Townson, Bd., farmer. Midtown. 

Tyson, Henry, innkeeper. Trout- 
beck Bridge. — Post-office. 

Tyson, Thomas, farmer. High 
Skelgill. 

Tyson, Isaac, farmer. Town Head 

Wilson, Nicholas, yeoman. Town 
End. 

Wilson, Nicholas, junr., farmer. 
Town End. 


AMBLESIDE. 


Abbott, John, coach-office and 
lodging-house, Fairfield. 

Arnold, Mrs., widow of the late 
Dr. Arnold, Fox How. 

Atkinson, James, joiner, and 
lodging-house keeper, Fisher 
Beck. 

Atkinson, J., saddler, &c., mar¬ 
ket-place. 

Atkinson, Wm., shoemaker. 

Backhouse, M., schoolmistress. 
New Boad. 

Backhouse, James, farmer and 
lodging-house keeper, Bydal. 

Ball, William, Esq., Glen Bothay 

Barrow, John, farmer, Hawks- 
head Hill. 

Barwick, John, surgeon. 

Barwick, Thomas, carpenter. 

Barrow, John, joiner. 

Barton, Mrs., milliner. 


Barton, William, school¬ 
master. 

Barkworth, Alfred, Esq., Tranby 
Lodge. 

Beck, James, farmer. Mire Side, 
Skelwith. 

Bell, Catherine, stay maker. 

Bell, B. F., ironmonger. 

Bell, T., chemist and druggist. 

Benson, Henry, blacksmith, Blue 
Hill. 

Black, Anne, Golden Buie Inn. 

Bonney, Bichard, plumber. 

Brenchley, Alexander C., Esq., 
Wanlass How. 

Brown, John, Commereial Hotel. 

Brocklebank, Benjamin, farmer, 
Stang End. 

Birkett, George, cooper. 

Backhouse, Wm., farmer, Bound 
Hill. 






102 


DIRECTORY. 


Carr, Thomas, Esq., Hill Top. 

Carter, John, Esq., Rydal Mount. 

Clark, Miles, grocer. 

Claude, Mrs. L., Broadlands. 

Claude, Mrs. A., Rose Cottage. 

Clay, Rev. J., Miller Bridge. 

Cleminson, James, solicitor. 

Clough, Mrs., Ladies* Seminary, 
Eller How. 

Conway and Henshall, milliners. 

Cookson, Miss, Clappersgate. 

Cookson, Isaac, boot and shoe 
maker. 

Cousins, Henry, joiner. 

Coward, John, joiner and lodging 
house keeper. Beech Cottage. 

Coward, William, tailor & draper 

Coward, Jeremiah, painter. 

Coward, Jeremiah, innkeeper, 
miller, and grocer, Skelwith 
Bridge. 

Coward, John, bobbin manufac¬ 
turer, Skelwith Bridge. 

Cowperthwaite, George, farmer, 
Clappersgate. 

Coward, Mrs., lodging-house. 

Creighton, John, yeoman. Low 
Park. 

Creighton, Joseph, blacksmith. 

Crewdson, Wm. Dil., Esq., Field 
Foot. 

Crosley, John, farmer, Hawks- 
head Hill. 

Crosfield, John, Esq., Rothay 
Bank. 

Davy, John, Esq., M.D., Lesketh 
How. 

Dawson, Thomas, waller. 

Dawson, James, Esq., (J.P.) 
Wray Castle. 

Dawson, Miss, Randy Pike. 

Dawson, D., farmer, High Park. 

Dickinson, Miss, Nook End. 

Dobson, Mrs., lodging-house. 
Prospect Cottage. 


Donaldson, Peter, Salutation 
Hotel. 

Dove, Charles, farmer, postman, 
and fishmonger, Low Fold. 

Dowling, Miss, Hill Top. 

Dobson, — Esq., Rothay Cot¬ 
tage. 

Fell, Rev. S. I., Sweeden How. 

Fell, William, Esq., surgeon. 

Fisher, Robert, lodging-house. 
Stock Cottage. 

Fleming, Mark, boot and shoe¬ 
maker. 

Fisher, John, farmer. 

Fleming, Rev. Fletcher, incum¬ 
bent, Rydal Lodge. 

Fleming, Lady le, Rydal 
Hall. 

Fleming, Mrs., draper & milliner. 

Fleming, Roger, joiner. 

Forrest, Mrs., lodging house, 
Windermere Lodge. 

Foster, Miss, Wray Cottage. 

Frearson, Rev. S., baptist minis¬ 
ter, Hawkshead Hill. 

Garside, Samuel, painter. 

Gibson, Mrs., grocer. 

Gibson, William, tallow chandler 

Gill, Miss, Oak Bank. 

Grave, Mrs., Oxenfell. 

Green, Mrs., Gale Cottage. 

Green, James, butcher and lodg¬ 
ing-house keeper, Fisher Beck. 

Grier, John, florist and seeds¬ 
man. 

Hodgson, John, farmer, Hawks¬ 
head Hill. 

Harrison, Matthew, Esq., (J.P.) 
Belle View. 

Harrison, John, Esq., The Green. 

Harrison, Mrs., lodging-house. 
Chapel Cottage. 

Harrison, Benson, Esq., (J.P.) 
Scale How. 

Hawley, Capt. R., Rock Cottage. 



DIltECTOBY. 


103 


Hawkrigg, Michael, mason. 

Hawkrigg, James, yeoman, Skel- 
with. 

Hawkrigg, Joseph, farmer 1 , Park 
House, Skelwith. 

Hayse, Robert, gardener and 
seedsman. 

Head, Miss, Miller Bridge. 

Herd, Edward, watch maker. 

Higgins, Miss, Fancy Repository. 

Hodgson, Rev. William, Old 
Brathay. 

Holme, John, tailor. 

Holme, William, bread baker. 

Holme, Thomas, blacksmith. 

Holme, Jas., Esq., Croft Lodge, 
Clappersgate. 

Hopkinson, Benjamin, Esq., The 
Oaks. 

Horrax, Charles, bobbin manu¬ 
facturer. 

Irving, Mrs., lodging house 
keeper, Rydal. 

Irving, William, cooper, Hawks- 
head Hill. 

Jackson, Mrs., Waterhead House 

Jackson, Henry, Royal Oak Inn. 

Jackson, Mrs., Newfield Cottage. 

Jackson, Thomas, carter and 
coal agent. 

Jackson, Arthur, mason. Rose 
Cottage. 

Jenkinson, W., bread baker. 

Jameson, Miss, Smithy Brow. 

Johnson, Mrs. E., lodging-house. 
Chapel Hill. 

Kitchen, Edward, basket maker. 
Low Fold. 

Lancaster, Mary, butcher. 

Leighton, George, plumber. &e. 

Lutwidge, Capt. H., R.N., The 
Cottage. 

Mackereth, Thomas, farmer. 

Martin, Richard, lodging-house 
keeper. Chapel Hill. 


Martineau, Miss H., The Knoll. 

Matty, Robert, tailor and draper. 

Mayson, Bryan, plasterer and 
lodging house. 

Morse, Miss, Gale Lodge. 

Mandall, Thomas, yeoman, tax- 
collector, and slate merchant, 
Loughrigg. 

Kelson, Christopher, draper. 

Newby, James, draper, Bank. 

Newton, George Law, wine and 
spirit merchant, Waterhead. 

Newton, Mrs. Mary, Waterhead. 

Newton, Mary, draper and mil¬ 
liner. 

Nicholson, John, Esq., solicitor. 

Nicholson, Mrs. Agnes, stationer, 
Post-Office. 

Noble, James, painter. 

Okell, Miss, Sweeden Bank. 

Parker, John, slate merchant, 
Hodge Close. 

Partridge, George, Esq., Covey 
Cottage. 

Pedder, Mrs., Gale House, 

Peijl, William, hooper, cooper, 
and grocer. 

Pritchard, Mrs., bread baker. 

Preston, Thomas, farmer. Mill 
Brow, Skelwith Bridge. 

Proctor, Jonathan, lodging house, 
Hill Side Cottage. 

Quillinan, Misses, Loughrigg 
Holme. 

Redmayne, Giles, Esq., Brathay 
Hah. 

Reynolds, M. Esq., Clappersgate. 

Richards, John, boot & shoemaker 

Richardson, William, carrier and 
farmer, Rydal Nab. 

Riddle, Mrs., lodging house. 
Five-ways House. 

Robinson, William, flag-merchant 
Blue Hill. 

Ridgway, Mrs., Low Field. 




104 


DIRECTORY. 


Robinson, Messrs., M. & J. C., 
carriers. 

Robinson, Brian, farmer, Rock 
Cottage. 

Roberts, Christopher, farmer, 
Ellers Brow, Skelwith. 

Robinson, John, Esq., Gunpow¬ 
der Works, Elterwater. 

Robinson, Mason, clerk. Gun¬ 
powder Works, Elterwater. 

Rogers, Major, Pull Cottage. 

Rollinshaw, Anthony, boot and 
shoemaker, & lodging house 
keeper. 

Roughsedge, Hornby, Esq, (J.P.) 
FoxGhyll. 

Salkeld, William, farmer, Skel¬ 
with Fold. 

Sarginson, James, farmer and 
lodging house, Skelwith. 

Stalker and Higgins, joiners. 

Shepherd, Wm., lodgings. Water- 
head. 

Shepherd, James, Esq., surgeon. 

Slee, Lancelot, farmer, Arnside. 

Slater, Mrs., confectioner and 
lodging house. 

Sprout, John, accountant and 
lodging house, Fairfield. 

Sproat, Wm, boot and shoe maker. 

Squires, Mrs., glass dealer and 
hairdresser. 

Stables, Edward, saddler. 

Stalker, Betsy, grocer. 

Stalker, Mrs. A., Springfield. 

Stansfield, Mrs., Waterliead. 

Suart, James, Esq., Low Fold. 

Tatham, Rev. J., curate, Rydal. 

Thompson, Jackson, joiner. Blue 
Hill. 

Thompson, Joseph, boat builder. 


Thompson, John, painter. 

Thompson, Jonathan, grocer. 

Thompson, Miss, lodging house, 
Walton Cottage. 

Tliwaite, Joseph, bread baker. 

Townson, William, White Lion 
Hotel. 

Townson, Thomas, miller. 

Townson, Benjamin, tax collec¬ 
tor, Woodbine Cottage. 

Townley, Robert, Unicorn Inn, 

Trougliton, Thomas, bookseller, 
&c.. Stamp Office. 

Trougliton, Miss D., lodging 
house. 

Tyson, Thomas, farmer. Water- 
head. 

Tyson, Joseph, carpenter. 

Tyson, Joseph, confectioner. 

Walton, Edward, shoemaker. 

Walker, John, grocer and con¬ 
fectioner. 

Wilson, John, Esq., solicitor. 
Cross Brow. 

Wilson, Thos., Esq., Clappersgate 

Woodburn, John, grocer and 
game dealer. 

Woodburn, Mrs., lodging house. 

Woodliouse, Richard, gardener. 
Haven Cottage. 

Woof, Mrs., farmer and lodgings. 
Low Fold. 

Woodend, John, farmer. Nook 
End. 

Wordsworth, Mrs., widow of the 
late Wm. Wordsworth, Rydal 
Mount. 

Wilson, James Christopher, Esq., 
Compston Lodge. 

Wilson, John, farmer. Grove. 

Winder, Mary, grocer, &c. 


CONISTON. 

Atkinson, Thomas, Watcrhead I Barnett, George, innkeeper 
Hotel. I Barratt, Wm., Holly how Cottage 



DIRECTORY. 


105 


Barratt, John, Esq., Holy worth 
House. 

Barrow, Edward, Black Bull Inn. 

Barrow, Joseph, yeoman, Little 
Arrow. 

Barrow, William, yeoman. Out- 
rake. 

Barrow, Henry, yeoman, Heath- 
waite. 

Barrow, Adam, farmer. Cat Bank. 

Barrow, William, farmer, Heath- 
waite. 

Burrow, George, farmer and 
wool stapler, Hallgarth. 

Beever, the Misses, Thwaite. 

Bell, William, joiner, Hawsbank. 

Benson, John, farmer. Yew Tree. 

Boileau, Simon John, Esq., Par¬ 
sonage. 

Bowdin, Daniel, accountant. 

Bownass, Wm., yeoman. Brow. 

Bownass, Roger, yeoman, Dixon 
Ground. 

Bownass, George, junr., 

Bownass, Roger, grocer and 
draper, Post-office. 

Briggs, John, carrier. 

Briggs, John, junr., carrier. 

Bywater, R. T., Esq., surgeon. 

Chambre, Miss, Bank Ground. 

Collinson, William, farmer. Low 
Yewdale. 

Coward, Edward, farmer, Earend. 

Coward, Henry, grocer & carrier, 
Bridge End. 

Coward, Edward, joiner. Saw 
Mills. 

Diddams, John, school master. 

Dixon, Benjamin, yeoman, Spoon 
Hall. 

Dixon, William, yeoman, Dixon 
Ground. 

Dodgson, George, grocer, &c., 
Bridge End. 

Dixon, Joseph, grocer. 


Dixon, John, tailor. 

Fleming, George, butcher. Yew- 
dale Bridge. 

Fleming, John, shoemaker. 

Fleming, Robert, blacksmith. 

Gaskgarth, Anthony, lodging 
house. 

Grave, William, Railway Tavern. 

Hall, Joseph, grocer. 

Harker, Jas., Rising Sun, beer¬ 
house. 

Irving, Isaac, farmer, Coniston 
Hah. 

Jackson, John, farmer. High 
Yewdale. 

Jackson, Edward, farmer and 
slate merchant, Tilberthwaite. 

Knight, John, farmer and asses- 
ment overseer. 

Knipe, Thomas and Jas., tailors. 

Linton, William J., artist, 
Brantwood. 

Marshall, J. G., Esq., M.P., 
Waterhead House. 

Massicks, Isaac, Crown Hotel. 

Massicks, Isaac, blacksmith. 

Mason, Miles, yeoman & waller, 
Low Houses. 

Mossop, Clement, tailor. 

Milligan, George, farmer. Tarn 
Haws. 

Nicholson, Eleanor, grocer. 

Parker, John, farmer and slate 
merchant. Holme Ground. 

Pickles, Richard, farmer, Dixon 
Ground. 

Pool, John, butcher. 

Prickett, Richard, farmer, Dixon 
Ground. 

Redhead, Edward, painter and 
glazier. 

Romney, William, agent to J. 
G. Marshall, Esq. 

Shuttleworth, Joseph, farmer, 
Tent Lodge. 



106 


DIRECTORY. 


Shuttleworth, Wilson, butcher, 
Waterhead. 

Smith, James Andrew, Esq., 
Admiralty Office, Bank Ground 

Smith, Wordsworth, Esq., Con- 
iston Bank. 

Smith, Mrs., Coniston Bank. 

Spedding, John, yeoman, Bow- 
manstead. 

Stolzman, Lieut. Col., Polish 
Exile. 

Thwaites, William, shoemaker. 

Tolming, Rev. Thomas, incum¬ 
bent of Coniston. 

Towers, Matthew, yeoman. Little 
Arrow. 


Airey, James, postmaster, Under 
How. 

Agar, Miss, Silver How. 

Atkinson, Thomas, shoemaker. 

Brown, Edward, auctioneer and 
appraiser, Hollins Hotel. 

Brocklebank, Edward, farmer. 
Underhelm. 

Collis, A. P., artist. Belle Yue. 

Cookson, Thomas, farmer and 
lodging housekeeper, DaleEnd 

Cookson, Mrs., How Foot. 

Cowperthwaite, William, lodging 
housekeeper. Church Stile. 

Dixon, James, farmer & builder, 
Bove Beck- 

Fleming, Rev. Sir Richard, 
rector. Rectory. 

Fleming,James, yeoman, Knott’s 
Houses. 

Fleming, John, provision dealer, 
Knott’s Houses. 

Farquhar, Lady, Dale Cottage. 

Fletcher, Mrs., Lancrigg. 

Fleming, John, yeoman, Under 
How. 


Townson, William, yeoman, Gill. 

Tyson, George, tailor and draper. 

Tyson, Joseph, yeoman, High 
Ground. 

Walker, Henry, farmer. Bank 
Ground. 

Wilson, Win., yeoman, Beckses. 

Wilson, Matthew, yeoman, Hol¬ 
lins Bank. 

Wilson, John, carrier. 

Wilson, Thomas, farmer, Conis¬ 
ton Bank. 

Wilson, John, farmer, Rowland¬ 
son Ground. 

Wilson, Wm., beerhonse keeper. 
Miners’ Arms. 


George, W. P., artist. Rose 
Cottage. 

Gibson, Mrs., Kelbarrow. 

Gibson, Miss, St. Oswalds. 

Green, John, Esq., Pavement 
End. 

Green, John, Esq., land agent, 
Rylands. 

Green, William, yeoman. Beck 
Allans. 

Garnett, Frank, shoemaker, 
Butterliphow. 

Greenwood, J. Y. Esq., Wyke. 

Green, Daniel, provision dealer. 
Pavement End. 

Harrison, Thomas, farmer and 
carrier, Gill Foot. 

Hayton, Robert, farmer. Score 
Gragg. 

Heelis, Stephen, Esq., solicitor, 
Forrest Side. 

Hodgson, Levi, waller & builder. 
Town End. 

Hodgson, Peter, boot and shoe 
maker. Town End. 

Howe, Rd., painter and glazier. 





DIRECTORY. 


107 


Jenkinson, Daniel, fanner, Goody 
Bridge. 

Johnson, Rev. William, Between 
Gates. 

Luff, Mrs., Dale Cottage. 

Mackereth, David, parish clerk, 
Wyke. 

Mackereth, Gawin, boatman & 
guide. Town End. 

Phillips, Captain, The Wray. 

Postlethwaite, Jos., blacksmith. 
White Bridge. 

Eothery, Mary, farmer, Goody 
Bridge. 


Atkinson, Robert, police officer. 

Atkinson, John, grocer. 

Atkinson, John, hoop manufac¬ 
turer, Outgate. 

Atkinson, Richard B., beerhouse 
keeper, Outgate. 

Backhouse, Richard, farmer, 
High Wray. 

Bainbridge, Mrs. Sarah. 

Baisbrown, John, gardener and 
seedsman. 

Baisbrown, Richard, earthenware 
dealer. 

Bardsley, Thomas, schoolmaster. 

Barker, John, painter & glazier. 

Beck, Mrs., Esthwaite Lodge. 

Bell, Anthony, yeoman, Birkrey, 

Bell, Dorothy, tea dealer, Green 
End. 

Benson, Thomas, farmer, Field 
Head. 

Black, George, farmer, Atwood. 

Bowman, Thomas, Esq., (J.P.) 
Rogerground. 

Bownass, Geo. waller, Waterside. 

Bownass, William, calf dealer, 
Thompson Ground. 

Braithwaite, George, boot and 
shoe maker. 


Sandford, Thos, Esq., Ben Place. 
Scott, William, general trader. 
Swan Inn. 

Usher, Isaac, Red Lion Hotel. 
Walker, I. farmer. Broad Rain. 
Webber, Mrs., Allan Banks. 
Walker, Ed., grocer. Moss Side. 
Walker, Edward, blacksmith. 
Town End. 

Wilson, J., yeoman, Goody Bge. 
Wilson, Edward & Sons, builders, 
Stubdale Cottage. 

Wilson, John, builder. Horse 
Stead Cottage. 


Braithwaite, William, plasterer. 

Brockbank, Robert & Matthew, 
joiners, Hannakin. 

Burton, John, tailor and draper. 

Chapman, Aim, Hill Top. 

Coward, James, saddler. 

Coward, Rev. William, school¬ 
master. 

Coward, Edward, farmer. Keen 
Ground. 

Coward, William, miller, Hawks- 
head Mill. 

Coward, William, flag merchant, 
Outgate. 

Crawford, Rev. Samuel, Borwick 
Lodge. 

Croasdale, John, farmer, Skinner 
How. 

Cooper, Mrs., Beckside Cottage. 

Croasdale, Isabella, farmer, Saw- 
rey Ground. 

Dixon, James, waller, Croft 
Head. 

Dowbiggin, James, auctioneer. 

Dowbiggin, John, joiner. 

Dugdale, Richard, farmer, Cragg 

Dugdale, John, farmer, Tock 
How. 

Forrest, W. farmer, Beyont Field. 




108 


DIRECTORY. 


Forsyth, John, wood monger. 
Field Head. 

Fothergill, John, farmer, Esth- 
waite Hall. 

Garnett, Mary, Borwick Ground. 

Garnett, George, farmer. Sunny 
Brow. 

Gibson, Alexander Craig, surgeon 

Gill, Sarah, King’s Arms Inn. 

Green, Samuel, clerk and sexton 

Hale, Miss Elizabeth, dressmaker 

Hartley, William, bacon dealer 
and farmer, Tock How. 

H awkrigg, J. yeoman, Town End. 

Hetherington, Sarah, oat-bread 
baker. 

Hunt, Thomas Henry, excise- 
officer, Hamiakin. 

Hewitson, Miles, hoot and shoe 
maker. 

Hickie, Daniel Banfield, L.L.D., 
master of grammar school. 

Hodgson, Braithwaite, Esq., 
Green End. 

Hodgson, William, blacksmith, 
Gallowbarrow. 

Hopkins, Joseph, Esq., Belle 
Grange. 

Hudson, Richd., farmer, Birkrey. 

Huish, Calverley, Esq. 

Hutchinson, John, boot and shoe 
maker. 

Hutchinson, Margaret, confec¬ 
tioner. 

Jackson, Richard, Sun Inn. 

Jefferson, William, farmer, Bor¬ 
wick Lodge. 

Keen, Jacob, farmer, Howe. 

Kendall, Win., yeoman, Hawks- 
head Field. 

Kendall, James, yeoman, Hawks- 
head Field. 

Kilner, Mrs., Richmond Villa. 

Kirkby, Mat., farmer. Water- 
son Ground. 


Kirkby, Robert, auctioneer, Colt- 
house. 

Ladyman, George, Queen’s Head 
Inn. 

Leviston, George S., yeoman, 
Greystone Cottage. 

Lodge, Edmund, Esq., Keen 
Ground. 

Martin, John, hoop manufacturer 

Martin, George, waller. 

Medcalf, William, Esq., Mill 
Hill Cottage. 

Milligan, Joseph, farmer, Castle. 

Milligan, Michael, farmer, Knipe 
Fold. 

Newby, John, farmer, Foldyeat. 

Nicholson, George, tailor and 
draper. 

Noble, Robert, boot and shoe 
maker. 

Noble, the Misses, drapers. 

Noble, Mary, confectioner. 

Noble, Jolm, ironmonger and 
grocer. 

Park, Rev. George, Parsonage, 
Walker Ground. 

Pyirk, William, joiner. 

Park, James, swiller, Gallow¬ 
barrow. 

Park, Jolm, farmer, Dodgson- 
ground. 

Parker, Anthony, farmer, II awks- 
head Hall. 

Poole, John, butcher, Roger- 
ground. 

Poole, John, Esq., solicitor. Field 
Head House. 

Postlethwaite, Isaac, tailor. 

Proctor, John. 

Purdie, James, tin plate worker 

Raven, Mrs., Walker Ground. 

Raven, Robert, saddler. 

Rigg, John, dogger, Outgate. 

Robinson, Thos., vetr. surgeon. 

Rowlandson, Margaret, spinster. 




DIRECTORY. 


109 


Rowlandson, John, gentleman. 

Satterthwaite, Thomas, cooper, 
Outgate. 

Satterthwaite, Thomas, farmer, 
Loanthwaite. 

Satterthwaite, Jonathan, bacon 
curer, Colthouse. 

Satterthwaite, Wm., blacksmith. 

Satterthwaite, Jane, spinster. 

Scales, Rowland, yeoman, Out¬ 
gate. 

Scott, Miss Deborah, dressmaker. 

Slater and Heelis, solicitors. 

Steele, Jonathan, yeoman. 

Studdart, Robert, boot and shoe 
maker. 

Swainson, G., farmer, Sike Side. 

Taylor, John, relieving officer. 

Taylor, Ann, grocer. 

Taylor, George, plasterer. 

Taylor, Ferdmando, Red Lion 
Inn. 

Taylor, the Misses, milliners and 
dressmakers. 

Taylor, Isaac, blacksmith, Han- 
nakin. 

Taylor, Joseph, beerhouse keeper, 
Waterbarnets. 


Usher, John, Brown Cow Inn. 

Usher, Benjamin, waller. 

Usher, John, waller. Sand 
Ground. 

Walker, Thomas, carpenter, Gal- 
labarrow. 

Walker, Mary, grocer, Gallow- 
harrow. 

Walker, William, bobbin manu¬ 
facturer, Bobbin Mill Cottage. 

Walker, John Thomas, bobbin 
turner. Summer Hill. 

Wardley, Joshua, farmer, High 
House. 

Wardley, Thomas, fanner. High 
Barn. 

Warriner, T., yeoman, Outgate. 

Watson, Charles, postmaster. 

Watson, Gawn, tallow chandler. 

Watson, Anne, draper. 

Whittaker, Mrs., Belmont. 

Wilson, Mary, national school 
mistress. 

Wilson, John, carrier. 

Wilcock, Thomas, Esq., Lake 
Bank. 

Wilson, William, Esq., land 
agent. High Wray. 






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